Synopsis: A modern city of naval importance rebuilt after wartime bombings. The Art Deco lido has been spruced up and is a real showcase of its type. Saltram House for old world splendour.
The intention of this day was not so much to clock up miles but to have a casual day of exploration. It proved to be an incredibly varied day. I saw a modern city, an Art Deco lido, and an historic house. I didn’t come across Hercule Poirot, but I always felt I could have done, as the lido was a perfect place for him to have appeared. There was some intermittent rain, but on the whole the weather was good, and certainly not as bad as the foreboding skies in some of my photos.
Plymouth - city centreI had the feeling that, although I’ve visited Plymouth on many occasions, I didn’t really know the city. For that reason I chose a short walk circuit through the centre of the city and on up to The Ho as something to do before setting off for Saltram House. As Plymouth was heavily bombed during the Second World War, it is today a modern concrete city of wide boulevards. Thankfully the car has now been barred from much of the centre, and that has helped a lot in raising its fortunes. That, and the fact that some money has evidently been put into rejuvenating the centre with flowers, water features, sculptures and large screen displays. As a whole it is now reasonably presentable, although I have to say I don’t think it’ll ever appear entirely attractive to the eye.
Plymouth - The Hoe. Naval war memorial.I walked through a park that contains a huge memorial to those lost from our navy in two world wars. Their bodies never found, their grave being the sea, this is a fitting tribute to their memory.
Plymouth - The Hoe.A short distance along a path from the war memorial was all it took for me to reach The Ho. From here the views out across Plymouth Sound are splendid. It was relatively quiet this early in the morning, which made it a tranquil place to be, heightening the pleasure I took in being there.
There’s a park carved out of an old quarry that apparently was very popular with Victorians. Reading the notice board I was amused to see mention of a Gus Honeybun Trail. Many of you will be too young to know about Gus, but he was an old favourite familiar to us oldies (see photo 38).
Plymouth - The Hoe. Tinside Lido.I was keen to take a look at the lido as I’m rather fond of all things Art Deco. I’d seen it before, but never really explored it. The pool was looking lovely, the water crystal clear and inviting. Attendants were mopping out sand from the pool, which I presume is carried in by the sea. There are a number of fountains in the pool, one large one in the centre of the pool, and a couple of smaller ones on the landward side.
Plymouth - The Hoe. Colonnade
There is a lovely sweeping promenade created above the pool, dating from the same time as the pool. This looks splendid and grand today, but just think how much more of an impact such avant garde architecture would have made on the people of this city at the time it was built. Fabulous!
Plymouth - The Hoe. Tinside Lido.
Unfortunately the changing facilities, numerous though these are, are quite derelict today. It’s pleasing to see that they are at least still in existence, joined together as they are by a labyrinth of winding paths running along the cliff face. I suppose there is little call for this type of changing facility these days, but it would be a shame to lose them, as they are an integral part of the lido, and quite iconic in their way.
Plymouth - The Hoe. Site of tombstoning incident.From the lido I walked along the cliff top in the direction of The Barbican from where I would pick up my walk route to Saltram House. As I was walking along I heard this enormous splash and couldn’t make out what it was at first. Looking over the wall I see a young boy swimming towards the shore. He’d evidently jumped from the cliff top into the water, a drop of what must be 60 to 70 metres. I was really alarmed that he might do that. Some Polish sailors in uniform applauded his antics, but I was hoping he wouldn’t do this again, as I wouldn’t have wanted to see him make a mistake. There were rocks in the water only a short distance from where he made his splash, and a small error of judgement would be all that it would take for it to mean sudden death. Shortly afterwards I see a sign on the wall that said: “No tomb stoning” This is not a phrase that I’d come across before, but I guess that’s the name they give to what the boy just did. The sign goes on to say: “Risk of sudden death” I can well believe that.
Plymouth - worth considering?
Down on The Barbican I have to wait a while as the bridge is up to allow some boats out from the harbour. Whilst I’m standing there I see this boat for sale, that seemed like my kind of boat. That is to say something not going anywhere fast. It had something of the African Queen about it. Perhaps I’ll wait till I find my Katherine Hepburn. Ok, ok, I admit it; you’ve caught me daydreaming again, and no, I don’t think I make much of a Humphrey Bogart.
The walk to Saltram House begins through very uninspiring trading estate type territory, but just after Laira Bridge it changes dramatically for the better. Whilst crossing the modern-day road bridge over the River Plym it’s perhaps worth contemplating the elegant iron bridge structure that once crossed the river here, completed in 1827 and in service till 1962 when the new road bridge was opened. The five span bridge built by Devon born James Meadows Rendel and commissioned by the Earl of Morley, gained Rendel a Telford medal. The eastern abutment to the ‘Old Iron Bridge’ still stands.
Just beyond Laira Bridge the view of the River Plym opens up. Immediately the noise and fumes from the traffic are left behind and the path, come cycle trail, takes on a more tranquil quality as it follows the banks of the River Plym. From here it’s only a 40 minute level walk to Saltram House, which was handy, as I was beginning to get hungry for my lunch.
I found a bench at Saltram House on which to eat my lunch, and then immediately afterwards entered the house on my ‘timed ticket’. The house and nearly all its contents were left by the Parker family to the National Trust just shortly after the war. It is a lovely house, and I feel I didn’t do it justice, rather rushing around as I did. I did at least spot a painting that I thought I recognized, by a Bernardo Bellotto. It looked like Piazza del Popolo in Rome, which we had visited last year,. On checking the inventory I found that was indeed the place. It’s easily distinguished by two church roofs of nearly identical design.
After the house I spent a little time wandering around the gardens and visiting the orangery. The gardens are not that extensive. I feel the National Trust could make more of them. There’s a rather lack lustre pond and a small herbaceous border, but perhaps it's best feature are some lovely trees. Oh, and the orangery is rather a delightful feature too.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 10.4 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 02min
Stopped Time: 1hr 38min
Total Ascent: 299 metres
Maximum Elevation: 73 metres
Buses: X38
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