Synopsis: Laura’s visit this summer. Some time was spent doing things around Exeter, and then we went on a little trip to Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight.
Saturday 24th July: Laura flew into Heathrow. Mum and I travelled up to meet her at the airport. Laura tried to sneak up on us, and although I hadn’t spotted her, Mum was as vigilant as ever!
Laura arrives by motorbike; bit of a shock!On the way home we suffered a major calamity as I managed to drive past our usual service station, the one that serves Kentucky Fried Chicken. I blame it on the distraction caused by road works and Laura telling a story about some forlorn cat; well, that’s my excuse. I was also a little shocked that Laura arrived by motorcycle.
That night we heat up a Tesco Spaghetti Bolognese ready meal for supper which is quick and easy, and really rather nice, especially when washed down with a little white wine.
Sunday 25th July: We wanted to spend the day with Mum and my suggestion was to go coastal path walking (Google My Map). Ok, that might sound rather ambitious, but it was not quite as challenging as it first sounds. I know of a stretch of coastal path that runs along what is known as the Revelstoke Drive. This is a drive created more than a hundred years ago I think for the purpose of allowing horse drawn carriages to follow its course. For this reason it is reasonably level and could be walked by Mum and Jaffa the aged dog.
A walk along part of Revelstoke Drive - Laura, Mum and JaffaJaffa did quite well for most of the walk, but flagged towards the end, when he had to be carried. A walker passing us noticed this and made the comment, “At least he’s not a great dane!” Absolutely! There was one steep section, back up to the second ‘pick-up’ car park, that I left Mum, Laura and Jaffa to walk at their own pace whilst I went on so as to fetch the car from the first ‘drop-off’ car park. All so well organised!
Next we had to think where we would go to eat our picnic lunch that we’d brought with us. We settled on Mothecombe as this was very close by and I new the grass car park would make an excellent picnic spot with views out over the Erme Estuary. We were soon parked up and had our picnic table and chairs set up, Laura willing to take the ‘dodgy’ chair with one spring short of a full set.
After we’d eaten we were discussing walking down to the estuary to see if we could still cross to the other side, which was doubtful as we had been watching the tide coming in. Mum said that, as there was quite a drop involved, she was happy to stay where she was and so left Laura and I to it. We descended to Mothecombe Beach and I judged that we might just manage the crossing, so off we set. We took off our shoes and rolled up our trousers and started to wade across the rapidly encroaching waters. We were foiled in our attempt. The water was lapping at our trousers and there were deeper waters ahead. We had to admit defeat and return to the shore.
I know of a cove just further along the shore and suggested to Laura we head for there. We followed a path that wends its way along the edge of a field and then through some trees before finally arriving at the cove. It’s a beautiful little cove that is quite story book in appearance, especially in it’s perfect proportions. The sort of place you might have imagined in reading a Famous Five story. There’s even a mysterious little beach house perched high above the beach that probably belongs to the nearby manor house.
From here Laura and I were able to short-cut our way along a path back to where our car was parked. We waved to Mum across the picnic field as we returned to where she was still sat contentedly. Considering no trip to the seaside would be complete without an ice cream, we decided Bigbury would be our best bet. We packed away our picnic gear away and set off for this our next stop.
On descending the hill into Bigbury I could see that the incoming tide was well advanced by now and that we’d have to be quick if we were to make it across to Burgh Island. We left Mum to pay the car park fee as Laura and I dashed off in an attempt to cross the incoming tide once again. After our previous failed attempt, we were more than ever keen for a success this time out. And yes, with trousers once again rolled up, we did make it, just! We had only time to grab a few photos as evidence for our having succeeded to make it to the island before needing to set off back again or risk being stranded on the island. It was a lot of fun. Mum was of course there to greet us as we came out of the water once again.
And after all that we were sure we deserved our ice cream. We watched the sea tractor for a while as this began to operate ferrying people to and fro the island. We then headed for the ice cream shop and consumed our just reward.
On the way out of Bigbury I briefly stopped to show Laura the place where I’d taken a panoramic photo shot looking across the estuary to Bantham Beach. Laura found the opportunity too good to miss, so she set about taking her own stitch-assist photo.
By then the day was long and it was time to set off home. We decided we needed another quick and easy meal, so at last Laura did get her KFC meal. That made for one happy young lady!
Monday 26th July: I have to go to work, so I leave Laura at home early in the morning. Mum is going to pick Laura up later in the morning and driver her across to Ricki and John’s. As I don’t have a car, it was either this or the bus for Laura. Ricki was planning to take a swim later that morning and it was Laura’s intention to join her.
Tuesday 27th July: Laura with Ricki and John.
Wednesday 28th July: My last day at work, as my holiday was due to start from tomorrow, and after that, as I’ve been made redundant, I’ve no pressing engagements to keep. I met up with Laura and Mum in town as we wanted to investigate what options there were for Laura to access her savings held in English building societies. It turns out there are few options, as it’s not possible for Laura to open an account as she is not resident in this country. In the end Laura had to settle for closing her account at Santander and having the money owed her made out as a cheque in her name for her to take with her back to Germany.
An evening meal with Mike, Sue and Becky (oh, and Mum too), at the Mill on the Exe.In the evening, in part in recognition of my last working day, we had decided to go out for a meal. Sue, Mike and Becky were able to join us. I suggested we eat at the Mill on the Exe, a place I hadn’t eaten at for some time, but it used to be quite good, and I felt the river location would be pleasant. Unfortunately there was quite a stiff breeze blowing on arriving at the pub, and although it was tempting to sit out, we decided the wiser choice would be to sit inside. It was nice to have a pint of beer with my meal, as I had negotiated beforehand with Mum, that I drive down and she drive back. Seemed a reasonable bargain to me. It was a pleasant and relaxing evening.
Thursday 29th July: I planned to take Laura on one of my bus walks today
Galmpton Church - medieval alabaster sculpturesAs is so often the case with bus walks, Laura and I had to be up early so as to catch the 7:10 bus to Salcombe. We’d made picnic lunches up the night before, therefore we made good time easily catching the bus to Kingsbridge, where we then caught the ongoing bus to Salcombe, getting off at the little village of Malborough. Setting out along lanes and then picking up a path through fields of sheep and corn, we stopped briefly at Galmpton Church, as I wanted to show Laura some medieval alabaster carvings rescued from the ruined church of South Huish. I think these are lovely and rather unusual, and Laura appreciated them too.
Looking west towards South Milton Beach, Thurleston, Bantham Beach, Bigbury and Burgh Island
From Galmpton Church we picked up a path out the back which took us up to a track which led us along a hill ridge in the direction of the coast. Along this stretch of the path there are fantastic views along the coast west with Milton Sands, Thurlestone, Bantham Beach, Bigbury and Burgh Island all visible, the early morning mist now beginning to burn off.
Outer Hope and Inner Hope we came upon next. These are beautiful, quintessentially Devon seaside villages as one might well imagine, perfectly living up to person’s imaginings. They looked beautiful is the sun, their beaches lapped at by the deep blue sea, children playing on the sand, and the odd boat bobbing on the waves.
Outer Hope, Inner Hope and Bigbury Bay
We had just time for a toilet stop, a quick snack, and then we had to be on our way again, heading out to the nearby headland from which there are superb views back to the two Hopes. I kidded Laura that the next village was No Hope, but we never came upon it.
Dropping down towards Soar CoveWe dropped down to and crossed the attractive Soar Cove with the rather ambitious intention of then climbing to the next cliff top which we’d chosen for our lunch stop. We certainly felt like we deserved lunch by the time we perched ourselves on a cliff ledge looking out to sea with the sun beating down on us. Our chicken sandwiches went down a treat.
Starehole Bay
After lunch there followed some fairly level walking along the cliff top till we came upon Starehole Bay where we looked down on various sailing craft, motor boats and skiers seemingly having a whale of a time from the whoops and hoots we heard they were making. Here our path dipped down quite sharply before rising on the other side of the cove along a narrow cliff path with a handrail to steady our ascent.
Laura and I are pleased that we've completed our 15 mile walk. This photo was taken in Salcombe.From Starehole Bay the path curls back in the direction of Salcombe. We passed under Overbecks House (NT) and then cross a couple of beaches before entering Salcombe proper. As we enter the town we bought ice creams for ourselves, as we felt we had earned them, and they were delicious. I had already told Laura of Salcombe’s reputation for good ice creams, and I think it was only the idea of this that kept her going. We’re both tired after our walk and are happy to sit for a while overlooking the water as we finish our ice creams. We then trek back up the hill to where we caught our bus for home. I sent an SMS message to Mum to say we could come around with pizzas later if she wished, and she liked the sound of that, so that’s what we did.
A long day, but a very rewarding one. For the walk statistics of this walk, see those recorded below. This was a repeat for me of a walk I had first walked on 7th June 2008.
Friday 30th July: Since the previous day had been spent without Mum, today we wanted to spend the day with her. We decided upon a visit to Living Coasts at Torquay, as this would be relatively quiet, and suitable for Mum and walk-weary Laura and myself. I decided it would be nice not to use the car once again, so suggested we go down by train. On making internet enquiries about train times to Torquay I discover that it is possible to make a straight-through train journey from my local station (Digby, Sowton) all the way to Paignton, which would be ideal for our purposes. It’s only a 20 minute walk to my local railway station, which is really convenient.
The journey to and from Torquay by train was to be part of our day out, as it follows the highly picturesque coast route through Dawlish and Teignmouth, skirting the cliffs as it goes. So much nicer than driving. From Torquay rail station it was only a 20 minute walk to Living Coasts which is situated on the harbour front. We stopped en route for biscuits and a drink as we intended to visit Living Coasts first and then have a late lunch.
Penguins out for a swimThis was our first visit to Living Coasts for Laura and I, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. All the exhibits are well presented and there are lots of different viewing opportunities including through glass walled aquariums where it was a delight to watch the animals swimming, particularly the penguins, which were so obviously in their element. The effortless ease, grace and speed with which they propel themselves through the water make us look like lumbering walruses.
After Living Coasts we reverted to our tradition of fish and chips in a harbour front cafe. This was no less appealing than it always is. All part of the ‘coastal experience’, but this time with salt and vinegar.
I came up with what, at least I thought, was a brilliant idea, that of buying scones, clotted cream and strawberry jam and treating ourselves to our very own cream tea. The very height of civilization. I was able to buy scones in the Oggy pasty shop and clotted cream in the Tesco Express, Laura telling me (incorrectly as it turns out) that I had strawberry jam in my larder. I later discovered I had raspberry jam, not strawberry, but this was soon rectified by a quick trip to my local One Stop. The cream teas we shared with Wendy and Colin back at Mum’s, being appreciated by all.
Saturday 31st July: It’s planned to spend the day with family. Wendy and Colin are still down, staying with Mum, and Claire said she’d come down and join us. This is the one day that David, Christine and family are about too, as they had just returned from their holiday in Cornwall, and were due to set off tomorrow for a few days in London. Our meeting place was to be Mum;s.
We had the vague notion that we’d like to have a barbecue but an ennui settled upon us and it took some time for us to motivate ourselves into action. A party of girls, led by Claire, were to go to Tesco for supplies, whilst the men were left in charge of the barbecue. Since this involved little more than chucking some coals in the barbecue and lighting them at the appointed time, this did not unduly over tax the men and was well within their capabilities. After the main meal of burgers and sausages we finished in our traditional manner by having grilled bananas and chocolate.
An evening stroll and drink (with David, Christine and family) down at the Double Locks.In the evening, after Wendy, Colin and Claire had departed, and feeling rather bloated, I suggested we go for a walk by the river down to Double Locks. The sun came out and warmed us through, and this was in many ways the best part of the day. A lovely tranquil spot to partake of a little beverage to wash down the excesses of our lunch. Laura’s bladder was severely tested by her pint of English ale, so we had to make a speedy dash back to base (Mum’s place).
Later that evening Laura prepared a frame to hold a set of photos as a birthday gift for Ricki. Laura had taken a panoramic shot on a walk with Ricki and John down Exmouth earlier in the week. This morning Laura and I had sat down and stitched and cropped the photo in preparation for framing. Now, Laura was to mount the photo and wrap the present.
Sunday 1st August: Laura is to spend the day over with Ricki and John, as they were having the family around to celebrate Ricki’s imminent birthday. Sue was also in the country, so it was to be quite a gathering of the clan. Laura decides she will catch the bus across to Grandma’s, so she leaves me doing ironing and other chores about the house.
I popped in on Mum during a brief afternoon walk, and helped her in preparing the car by cleaning all the windows. I hadn’t been home very long before Laura arrived, dropped off by her Uncle David. We had a snack supper and then looked at some Art Deco books together. I was attempting to convey something of my passion for the architecture of this movement, and gave Laura some clues as to what to look for in Art Deco building design. Does Laura now have some inkling of why I like Art Deco, or is she left baffled and bemused? I guess time will tell.
Monday 2nd August: Laura, Mum and I are to set off early (7am) for our mini vacation. Mum came around with the car and we loaded it up with our bags and were soon on our way. Although Portsmouth, our initial destination, isn’t a great distance from home, it was predicted to take us 3 hours to get there. My plan was to arrive for the opening time of the Historic Dockyard where we were to visit HMS Victory. Everything went smoothly and we were ready to board HMS Victory by around 10:30.
HMS VictoryHMS Victory is without doubt a very imposing ship. I couldn’t but help be impressed that this finely crafted ship of huge proportions was built more than two hundred years ago. Considering this was pre Industrial Revolution the technology on display was quite amazing. Everything was so incredibly well thought out right down to how to keep the gunpowder in the hold from accidentally igniting by lining the storage area with copper plates. This also had the benefit of keeping the rats out, which otherwise would spread gunpowder about the ship. An ingenious entrance way had been devised to prevent accidental sparks entering the area. I quote in this just one area of the ingenuity that was on display in this ship. This is certainly worth seeing! I think I might watch Master and Commander once again, to sample the taste of life as a sailor during these times, although that is something I don’t think I’d have a taste for.
Harbour tour - modern war fleetBy the time we’d completed our tour of HMS Victory it was approaching lunch time so we sought out a cafe that served hot snacks, Laura and I settling for Lasagne, as we needed fortifying. We’d just missed the harbour tour so we spent some time wondering around the Royal Navy Museum, catching the later harbour tour. The harbour tour took us down to the quay area of Portsmouth which looked quite smart and eye catching, and a place, given more time, that might be interesting to explore.
HMS WarriorAfter the harbour tour we had some spare time so I suggested we visit HMS Warrior, an iron clad battle ship of the Victorian era. Apparently, at the time, this was the most advanced and powerful warship of its age. It has an odd combination of both sail and steam, in that the ship has masts as a traditional ship would have, but also has enormous engines of the type that were later to power the trans-Atlantic liners of the great age of passenger shipping. It was really interesting to enter the lower deck where the engines and boilers can be seen. This must have been a real hell hole during the times that it was being operated. Apparently the boilers required a constant feed of coal whilst they were running.
After our visit to the Portsmouth Historic Dock Yards we returned to our car and set of in the direction of our lodgings at a Travelodge in Southampton. On route I pulled in at a Tesco store in the hope that their cafe might be still serving hot meals but arrive 15 minutes after closing at 18:15. This was obviously not a serious problem, as we could buy our supper, as well as tomorrow’s breakfast, elsewhere in the store. It wasn’t long before we were lodged in our family room at the Travelodge and tucking in to our breakfast. Later that evening we used my mobile broadband for the first time, which was really useful to check our emails and do a little internet surfing. I think this is going to be a valuable little gadget to have with me on my travels.
Tuesday 3rd August: This was to be the day we were to sail from Southampton to the Isle of Wight. We had a light breakfast in our room before heading off for the ferry dock just a short distance down the road. We arrived at the docks by 8:15 for a 9am sailing, which was about perfect.
Approaching East CowesOn the upper deck of the ferry there was a stiff breeze blowing so we decided to take refuge behind a glass screened enclosure. We sailed out across the Solent in the direction of Cowes. We were warned by the ferry captain that the waters would be busy with sailing craft, and they certainly were, but the captain skilfully negotiated a course through them all. A starting gun went off just as we were entering the docks at Cowes, which gave fright to numerous dogs on the ferry.
Carisbrooke CastleWe had no definite plans for the day. I said I’d drive up to Carisbrooke Castle (EH) and we’d decide when we got there if we’d like to look around. It cast an impressive sight as we gained height to the castle car park, so we decided on going in, and we were glad we did. There was a lot to see at the castle, including a motte and bailey castle at the highest point, dating from Norman times. Circling the buildings is a castle wall that’s almost complete, walking around the upper wall as sentries would have once done really does give the feeling of what it would have been like to guard this stronghold. It’s a good thing that Health and Safety now dictates there has to be a safety rail, as otherwise I’d have been quite unnerved by our circumnavigation.
Carisbrooke Castle - Princess Beatrice's GardenKing Charles I was imprisoned in the castle at one time, and attempted an escape from one of the windows, but became stuck in the window, and was thus thwarted.
Queen Beatrice, the last child, and favourite, of Queen Victoria took up residence here at the castle, presumably an interest in the island emanating from time spent at Queen Victoria’s retreat of Osborne House. Beatrice was governess of the Isle of Wight from 1896-1944.
The NeedlesThe next stop was to be The Needles where we hoped to have lunch. Not really knowing quite what to expect, but all the same rather surprised to be approaching what appeared to be a huge amusement park swarming with (bloody) tourists. Anyway, we parked up and soon found a pleasant cafe in which to grab a snack lunch. After lunch, not quite sure how one visits The Needles, I started talking to the driver of what appeared to be a circular tour bus. He explained that he could take us out to the Needles on a return ticket (free for NT members) and so we opted for that. We were deposited on a very exposed corner of coasts and were immediately battered by strong winds. We descended down to the Old Battery which we entered and explored.
Alum Bay - the coloured sands
One of the features of this area are the coloured sands of Alum Bay. There was a chairlift operating that would take us down to the beach, but Mum declined this opportunity (for some reason), so that left just Laura and I for the ride. We plumped for the ride down and the walk back up, rather to the amusement of the ticket sales lady, on the grounds, as Laura so rightly pointed out, the best views were going to be had on the ride down, and we could do with the exercise (right again!)
Wednesday 4th August: The day started with a substantial English breakfast from the bar cafe in the Travelodge, which set us up well for the day ahead. Laura however picked a bad day to eat Coco Pops; she was tucking into these when a story came on breakfast TV about how much sugar this cereal contains and how bad for you it is. Oh dear; guess who won’t be eating Coco Pops tomorrow.
The plan for today was to visit Osborn House (EH), a place I’d long wished to visit. I am at first taken the wrong route by my GPS system, whereupon I discover that the Osborne House that I had entered was not on the Isle of Wight at all. Luckily I’d marked the house in my GPS as we had driven past it yesterday, so it was a small matter to correct our target destination, and we had soon arrived at our correct destination.
It was immediately evident that Osborne House was going to be a very popular destination on this day, as the car park was rapidly filling and we had to queue for our entrance tickets. Getting around the house involved a good deal of jostling with other visitors, particularly the many Germans, but it was worth it. The house is, although quite grand, also rather intimate, which I wasn’t quite prepared for. I really had the sense that this was a retreat from the responsibilities of a world of monarchy and politics. This was Queen Victoria’s escape to an idyllic tranquil paradise. A place to come to terms with the grief at losing her husband at the relatively tender age of 42. And yet still there is the sense of this being the centre of an empire that stretched the glove. An odd sense of seeming irreconcilable contradictions and anomalies. The power of empire and yet the frailty of humanity sitting side-by-side with each other.
Osborne House (EH) - Mum tucks into her Victoria spongeWe had lunch in the Petty Officer’s Quarters which is where the reception and cafe are situated. There was quite a queue so we had to wait some time for our food, but were lucky in getting a table, as it had started to rain, so indoor tables were in high demand. You’ll note the relish in which Mum tucked into her ample helping of Victoria sponge. Laura and I settled on Battenberg cake. Note how all the cake names tie-in with the place we were visiting.
Osborne House (EH) - Swiss Cottage
The rain had stopped by the time we’d finished our lunch so we set off in the direction of the Swiss Cottage some two thirds of a mile away. Apparently this was built as a place by which the royal children could acquire domestic skills, and possibly this is some explanation why it is so far from the house.
Osborne House (EH) - Italianate style. Storm clouds brewing.
As we were heading back from the Swiss cottage Laura and I stopped to briefly investigate the ice house. Whilst we were in this we heard distant rumblings, and it wasn’t Mum’s tummy. There were storm clouds brewing and we knew this was the time to bid a hasty retreat. We were but only 200 metres from Osborn House when the skies opened and we got a drenching.
As we’d become wet there was really nothing for it but to return to our Travelodge and get changed. I’d brought along on the trip a copy of the Mrs Brown DVD, as a sampler of Queen Victoria and her times, and we decided this was the perfect time to view this, which is what we did. It was interesting to see Osborne House once again, and the bathing machine of Queen Victoria in use; a fitting way to round off our day.
As this was to be our last evening together we decided on searching out a place in Newport at which we could have a meal. I suggested it would be nice to perhaps have a Chinese Meal and everyone was happy to go along with that idea. We wandered about Newport until we came across the Ming Garden Chinese Restaurant (39 St James Street, Newport) and chose to eat there, and we were glad we did. The atmosphere and service was excellent, and the food good.
Thursday 5th August: This was to be the day Laura was to fly back to Germany, and yet here we were still on the Isle of Wight. We started the day as yesterday, with a substantial English breakfast at the Travelodge. We then packed the car and set off for the East Cowes ferry port, only about 15 minutes drive from where we were staying.
We spent some time both in the car and on the ferry contemplating where we’d take our lunch stop. I toyed with the idea of visiting The Vyne, a National Trust property we were to pass, but decided against this, in favour of a trip to Runnymede, also National Trust, although the exact location of this was less than evident.
Runnymede was a name that, as for any English person, was ingrained in my consciousness, and yet in all honesty I knew little of its historical significance, other than it was the location of the sealing of the Magna Carta. I was counting on tourist signs getting us the final distance to our destination as we approached the area. Luckily I spotted a Waitrose supermarket a short distance from our destination, so we stocked up with some items for a picnic lunch.
Lunch picnic spot at RunnymedeI pulled in on a grass car park (NT) on the banks of the Thames which was a perfect place for a picnic lunch. We found a bench on which we were able to sit in the sun and watch the many craft going to and fro along the river. Above the airliners taking off from Heathrow could be seen going their various directions at what seemed a hurried pace when compared with the chug-along speed of the river craft. I think I felt a greater sympathy for the speed of the various barges at this time.
We took a little time out after lunch to walk the tow path along the River Thames. There are certainly some grand houses with frontages onto the river, and craft moored at jetties all along our walk, but we were happy to walk and gaze and dwell on the beauty and tranquillity of the scene. A quick toilet stop at the National Trust tea rooms and then we were back in our car for the 6 mile (yes, that’s all) route to conclude our journey to Heathrow, where we arrived and Laura was checked in 1 hour 15 minutes prior to her flight time. All had gone according to plan. We said our swift goodbyes, as this can be such an emotional time, and set off on our due courses, Laura for Stuttgart, Mum and I for Exeter. Later I was to find out that Laura’s flight was unable to land at Stuttgart due to storms, and on running low on fuel was diverted to Frankfurt. Luckily this was simply an opportunity to refuel and Laura was back in Stuttgart only about 2 hours later than expected.
It had been a rather brief, compared to previous holidays, trip this time, but it was splendid (‘magnificent’ to quote Laura) time all the same. This time was unusual in that Helen had chosen to come later in the year so as to coincide her visit with that of her cousin Kate’s from Australia. Plus Helen has a very important chemistry exam to prepare for. I just love being with my daughters, whether it is one or two, and so I was bound to have a wonderful time. Laura, I, and Mum too, did a lot in a short time, and certainly made the most of our time together. A glorious holiday!
Total Distance: 12.5 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 39min
Stopped Time: 1hr 43min
Total Ascent: 617 metres
Maximum Elevation: 135 metres
Buses: X64 & 606 (note: possibly should have purchased return to Salcombe)
