Synopsis: Time spent looking around Axminster early in the morning, searching out locations of old photographs. Then cross-country trek to Hawkchurch, a lovely peaceful village.
This walk was to be a bit different from most walks I do in that (a) I was travelling by train as opposed to bus, and (b) I wanted to explore the locations within Axminster and Hawkchurch of some old photos from the Francis Frith collection. I discovered there were numerous photos of Axminster, and most of them I could place on a modern map of the town. It was my expectation that probably neither of these places would have changed very much in the passing years, an expectation that was to be borne out as the day went on.
Today was a repeat attempt at this walk, as originally I had planned to do this route on the previous weekend, but there had been some heavy rain overnight and the day did bode well, so I postponed it. Today started off dark; well, it was 5:30 am that I got up, as I wanted to put a meal in the slow cooker before I set off. Plus I had to walk to Pinhoe railway station, which I knew was 2 miles distance from home. I had breakfast, made sandwiches, put a meal in the slow cooker (pork and banana curry), and was on my way by 7:30 am. I was at Pinhoe station by 8:10 am, in plenty of time to catch the 8:35 train. It didn’t take long to get my tickets from the self-service ticket machine, and I was soon sitting on the platform putting my gaiter on. An elderly woman (yes, older than me!), came and sat by me. She told me she and her friend were off to the theatre in London, to see Love Never Dies, the latest Andrew Lloyd Webber musical. She told me it wasn’t quite her taste, but her friend wanted to see it. Apparently they’ll stay overnight in London. Sounded like a nice trip, but I decided I’d stick to my plans.
Arriving Axminster from railway stationThe train was relatively quiet and punctually deposited me in Aximinster by 9:05. As I was running to schedule and the sun shone brightly I decided to spend a little time searching out some of the Francis Frith photographs of Axminster before starting on my walk proper. The first thing I’m faced with is sight of a Tesco filling station where I’m sure Station Road once was. Ah well! I guess it’s a station of sorts.
Trinity Square, Axminster
There was quite a bustle of activity in Axminster at this early hour. Lots of deliveries taking place, and a number of shoppers about. The old Francis Frith photographs around Trinity Square and St Mary’s Church were very easy to place, as this area had hardly changed at all. There weren’t that many give away signs that this wasn’t the 1950’s. There aren’t as many motorcycle and sidecars as there once were, but otherwise it looked like a town from the past.
Millbrook, Axminster
After about an hour of dawdling around in Aximinster, including a brief visit to St Mary’s, I decided I should be setting off on my walk. By going up Lyme Street I caught a photo of the Method Church, and then headed down a lane in the direction of Millbrook, site of another photo. I thought this one was going to be hard to place, but I was able to once again find the old landmarks in the new landscape. There has been a lot of development behind the old thatched mill which stands to this day, but it was easy to recognize the landscape. A little lane pulls up hill out the back of the mill, and this was my route out of Axminster.
I was keen to make Hawkchurch in time for an early lunch, so I set off across country at a good pace. There were some gentle ascents, but nothing too strenuous. In a number of places I could see the soil underfoot was quite different to typical red clay of Devon, in that it was a chalky sandy surface most commonly seen on a Downs landscape. To see what I mean, check out the later photos along the River Axe, where the river banks reveal all.
Snowdrops by the streamAt a crossroads in the lanes I saw some snowdrops in flower on the banks of a little stream. This made a very nice picture. I think the snowdrops are a little bit later this year, not surprising after the long cold winter we’ve had. I guess even snowdrops need a little warmth before they’ll show their heads.
I climbed one last hill and started on my descent into Hawkchurch when I saw a football field to my left, with some benches by the touchline. I decided this would make a good place to eat my lunch. By now the sky was a mix of harsh sunshine and threatening clouds, but it was quite pleasant to sit there, eat my lunch and make a cup of tea.
HawkchurchAfter lunch I descended down the lane into Hawkchurch. It was even easier to place the Francis Frith photos than it was in Axminster. The only thing I didn’t come across was the little old man with his horse and cart, as this had evidently been replaced by a Suzuki 4x4, something not quite so photogenic. Progress?
I searched the church cemetery looking for Rocketts, Mum’s maiden name, as the census had indicated there had been some living in the village, but there was no sign of their presence today. The church itself is quite attractive, and even has some capitals dating back to Norman times. If you look closely under the nave roof gutter you’ll see some Norman carvings.
Early house?On my way back to Axminster I pass a quaint old house (that made me think of Manderley) and what was once an old mill, before descending further, crossing the railway line and following the Axe Valley. By this time the contours of Axminster are visible on the horizon not far ahead as I follow a path beside the meandering River Axe.
Castle Hill, Axminster
Finally I cross the railway line once again and ascend Castle Hill on my way into Axminster. Once again this is the site of a Francis Frith photograph which I struggle to place whilst on the walk, but subsequently found I could match it with one of my photographs. Some of the cottages have gone, but a large mill at the end of the road gives the game away.
Victoria Place, Axminster
I pass a building named the Regent, which I suspect was an old cinema in times past. I look at my boots with dismay and wonder if I’m going to be allowed on the train. They’re encrusted with a thick layer of mud and I’ve seemingly got no way to clean them. Then, on my approach to the railway station I see the Tesco filling station again, and the thought occurs to me that they usually have a water and air service stand, and that’s what I saw. I gave my boots a quick wash and they came up looking fit for travel, even on a carpet lined railway carriage. Saved again!
The train arrived on the dot at 16:04 and deposited me punctually in Pinhoe at 16:28, impressive speed. A quick call to Wendy and I arranged to meet up with her and Colin at Mum’s to share my pork curry with them later that evening. A bottle of red wine to wash it all down, proved a nice way to round off an excellent, if rather long, day.
I was left with the thought that with the superior speed of trains I could actually travel a bit further afield for a day’s walk; something to bear in mind for a future outing. For now I could think of nothing better than to be in bed.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.1 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 41min
Stopped Time: 1hr 21min
Total Ascent: 443 metres
Maximum Elevation: 172 metres
Train: Pinhoe - Axminster
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