27 March 2010 – Walk: Coleton Fishacre to Kingswear (8.3 Miles)

Synopsis: The walk that nearly wasn’t. Last minute change of plans due to propitious bus timetable. A nice stretch of coast, despite the ‘slight slopes' along the way.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OS – WheresThePath

 

Tracklog overlay (1 – Coleton Fishacre to Kingswear) - OSM – ViewRanger

 

Tracklog overlay (2 – Goodrington to Paignton) - OSM – ViewRanger

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

As mentioned in the synopsis, this wasn’t the walk I thought I was doing today. On the previous night whilst musing on walk options for today, I did look to do this walk, but the bus timings were extremely difficult, so I swapped it for a Greenway walk, easier for buses. Then, setting out thinking it was the Greenway walk I was doing, I found that the buses were running really well, slightly ahead of schedule. I was approaching Paignton bus station and could see there was a chance of me catching the 9:30 120 to Kingswear, as I arrived at the bus station at 9:27. A quick bus hop here and I was back on the Coleton Fishacre to Kingswear walk.

The day started fine; dry, warm and sunny. I arrived at the end of the lane to Coleton Fishacre by around 9:50, leaving me a 30 minute trek to the National Trust property. I arrived ten minutes earlier than the opening time of 10:30, so I sat in the car park and had a snack whilst I waited for the place to open. I wasn’t the only one there; the place was surprisingly busy.

Coleton Fishacre (NT) - Reflections

My plan was to spend a little time around Coleton Fishacre garden, as it’s always a pleasant place to visit. The sun sparkled off the stream and the little pools of water. It was a litle too early for the daffodils, as there were only a few in bloom. The tree ferns seemed to have survived the harsh winter well, which I suppose is testament to the virtues of a coastal climate.

 

 

 

 

Amongst the primroses

 

 

I dropped out the bottom of the gardens of Coleton Fishacre, to pick up the coastal path in the direction of Kingswear. Because we’ve had so much rain of late, I found the going quite treacherous in places, being more like a ski slalom than a walk path. I came upon numerous people out on the coast path, I suppose all thankful for a little good weather.

 

Time for lunch

 

 

 

My target for lunch was Froward Point which was not so far along the path. As I surmounted the point I found I was hit by a cold blast of wind running along the coast, so dropped down slightly from the ridge to find a sheltered perch with dramatic views from where to eat my lunch. It was a perfect place to have a ham sandwich.

Brownstone Battery

I wasted no time and was soon on my way again. By now there were some dark clouds drifting by and it wasn’t long before I had my first shower of rain. I discovered that the National Trust had been busy clearing scrub around Brownstone Battery and therefore I dropped down along the coast path to find the old war lookout point and gun turret. The coast guard station here has been re-established and was in use.

Private beach

 

 

I faced one more drop into a cove before Kingswear. I recall this cove from a previous family walk we did along this way. There’s a private beach in the cove to which access is prohibited, I shall never forget Helen reaction to seeing this; she was so piqued that someone should be able to own a beach and restrict it from public access. I suppose we should be grateful that restricted access like this is very rare.

Paignton - A little Art Deco

 

 

I arrived in Kingswear quite early in the afternoon. I settled on catching the next bus out and spending a little time walking along the Goodgrinton to Paignton stretch of coast. I simply timed my walk such that I could catch the next bus for Exeter which would run along the sea front, a relaxed way to end my day’s walk.

 

So, a walk of little planning, but none the worse for that.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.3 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 50min
Stopped Time: 50min
Total Ascent: 573 metres
Maximum Elevation: 160 metres

Buses: 39, 12, 120 & X46

23 March 2010 – Walk: Wellington (12.6 Miles)

Synopsis: The weather wasn’t promising, but I felt I had to get out. From Wellington the Black Down Hills were shrouded in mist. Would it clear? No! Rather cold and damp by the end of the day.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

Mistake number 2 on this day, after the weather, was the fact that I was confronted, not long out of Wellington, with an M5 motorway that I couldn’t cross. I’d seen a footpath on the map the night before, a footpath that appeared to cross the motorway, but as I approached the motorway a man walking a dog said to me, “You know this path leads nowhere”. He explained that on building the motorway the path I was walking was cut in two. Odd in that it is still finger posted as a ‘restricted’ path, but I suppose the clue was in the use of the word restricted.

I asked the man walking his dogs how I might get to the Black Down Hills from where we were. He explained the shortest and quickest route was to cut across some fields, although this was no public right of away. He said the farmer was usually ok about it, although he didn’t want this practice encouraged. So, with that little warning in mind, I set off in search of a way across the motorway.

After traipsing along a very muddy track I eventually entered onto a lane that I could see went through a tunnel under the motorway. A quick check of the map and I could see a public footpath that would get me back onto my original planned walk route.

Berbestone Manor

There was an awful lot of mud around and my boots were soon heavy with a nice thick coating of the stuff. I see through a hedge a glimpsed view of old Berbestone Manor, what looks like a house of Elizabethan origins. The dog walker informed me that the track I had been on was the old carriage track from the manor house to Wellington.

Eventually I enter onto another lane, this time rising quite steeply in the direction of the Black Down Hills. It’s not long before I’m ascending into the mist and I soon become quite damp. Near the top of the hill I shelter under a fallen pine tree to eat my lunch. I do this reasonably quickly as I was getting quite cold and wet sat there under dripping branches.

I start to follow a track along the ridge of the hills. I ask another dog walker if it’s possible to follow this route all the way to Wellington Monument, but he tells me it isn’t. It’s unfortunate that access is somewhat restricted in the Black Down Hills, and that you’re forced to walk a rather busy road along the ridge. This seems to me something of a blight on what is undoubtedly an area of outstanding beauty, as is its designation.

Wellington Monument, in the mist

I stopped briefly at Wellington Monument to take a photo where the monument is barely visible in the mist. As you can imagine, there were no views, therefore little point in hanging around. I set off from the monument down a muddy and slippery path in the direction of Wellington. This time it’s easier for me to cross the motorway, as there is a footpath tunnel under the road.

 

Wellington – location of a Francis Frith photo

 

 

 

I have some time to spare before my bus was due to arrive so I wandered around Wellington attempting to locate the positions of some Francis Frith photos. Just as with Axminster which I visited a couple of weeks back, there have been few changes to the centre of Wellington.

I’m keen not to miss my bus as I’m cold and damp by now. On finding a seat on the bus I realise that my mud encrusted gaiters weren’t smelling too hygienic. I suppose at least some of the mud was the calling card of cows in the field. I hoped my fellow passengers wouldn’t object too strongly to my presence. I suppose I should have opened a window, but I was too cold to do that. I’m afraid I took the view we should all suffer together.

A walk that would have been a good deal better on a fine day. I make a mental note that I must come back some time.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 12.6 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 43min
Stopped Time: 30min
Total Ascent: 378 metres
Maximum Elevation: 289 metres

Buses: 92

21 March 2010 – Walk: Kingskerswell to Babbacombe (8.9 Miles)

Synopsis: A dash to the coast from Kingskerswell. Lovely views out over Torbay from Great Hill. The walk follows the John Musgrave trail for part of its length.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I needed a walk that wouldn’t require too much planning for today, as I started the day with nothing yet prepared. I’d recently walked from Kingskerswell to Teignmouth, and on that day the thought occurred to me that there were possibly other routes to the coast from here. A quick look at the map on my favourite walk planning web site, Where’s the Path, showed a route was possible from Kingskerswell to Watcombe Beach, from where I’d be able to walk on to Babbacombe.

Mr Heinz!

I was promptly deposited by bus at The Sloop pub in Kingskerswell and set off up hill out of the town past some cottages. There are some lovely old parts to Kingskerswell, parts that aren’t done justice when the town is viewed from the main road, but how often can that be said? The best of Devon will never be seen from a typical car journey. I couldn’t help but be amused by the humour of Mr Heinz, who it just so happens lives at number 57! Would you believe it?

 

 

 

 

 

View over Torbay from Great Hill
Once called Telegraph Hill

I was just over the brow of the hill and already I found myself in quiet Devon countryside and I began to relax. The walking was relatively easy going until I approached Great Hill,, where a gently incline through a park took me up to a superb vantage point looking out across the wide expanse of Torbay. Apparently this hill was once called Telegraph Hill and for a while there was a Royal Observer Corp encampment here. It was established during the Second World War, was closed down afterwards, only to come back into service for a while at the start of the Cold War. I guess we feared the Russians were coming! Today they come in great numbers, but mostly to buy postcards and ice cream. Perhaps the world has become a little more civilized.

Monument to Brunel

As I descended from Great Hill through parkland I came across a corner dedicated to the great Victorian engineer Brunel. Apparently Brunel much loved this area and built his retirement house here on the hill, only to die before ever moving in. There were various wood sculptures in this corner of the park, one a huge totem pole carved with gears and pistons and other engineering artefacts. There was even a sculpture of Brunel himself, which I (don’t laugh) mistook for the Mad Hatter. I suppose with the release of the new Tim Burton Alice film, I must have had Wonderland on my mind. Strange likeness though!

You might be wondering about my “tree of life” quote. Seeing this tree made me think of this as I’d watched the hauntingly beautiful film The Fountain only the night before.

Watcombe Beach

 

There was no time to waste, as I wanted to make Watcombe Beach for my lunch stop. Watcombe is a favourite place of mine, tucked away as it is in its discrete little cove where few people think to venture. There was a family on the beach when I arrived, and perhaps surprisingly for March, there were two little girls in bathing costumes playing on the beach. I find a secluded spot perched high above the beach and put the kettle on.

 

I was faced with rather a stiff climb out from Watcombe Beach to pick up the coast path to Babbacombe. Council workers were cleaning the toilet block as I climbed the hill, obviously in readiness for the forthcoming Easter holidays, cue for start of another holiday season.

Babbacombe cliff railway

I entered Babbacombe by the old cliff railway ferrying people to and from the beach. It has obviously done good service during its near hundred year history. I searched out a bench on the cliff top and rested up for a while. Looking out on Oddicombe Beach I could see there had been a significant landslip where a lot of bright red sandstone cliff now lay on the beach stretching into the sea.

 

Landslip at Oddicombe Beach

 

I checked out the bus times whilst resting at Babbacombe. The plan had been to catch a bus from here into Torquay from where I’d catch my bus home. The problem with this plan was I’d just missed a bus and faced a wait of nearly an hour for the next bus. I decide I might as well set off walking towards Torquay, keeping an eye over my shoulder for a bus should one appear. It didn’t! I walked the entire route into Torquay.

 

My walk today had been in lovely warm sunshine, which the subsequent days of my holiday week, days of rain, were to prove as having been something of a rarity. I’d had a really good walk and yet felt well rested as I travelled on my bus home through the sunny Devon countryside. I popped in on Mum as I walked home, and we looked through some old family photos I’d recently borrowed from my cousin Dennis. We could identify a number of faces, but many we couldn’t. More detective work required at sometime.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.9 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 13min
Stopped Time: 36min
Total Ascent: 440 metres
Maximum Elevation: 174 metres

Buses: X46

13 March 2010 – Trip: Barnstaple

Synopsis: A Mother’s Day (well, almost) outing by train to Barnstaple

Photo Set – Flickr

 

I asked Mum if she’d like an outing to Barnstaple as a Mother’s Day treat, and she said she would. I proposed that we travel by train, as the route along the Tarka Line was said to be very picturesque. Wendy dropped Mum and I off at the Sowton train station from where we caught the 11:10 train. The sun was shining although a slight breeze was rather chill.

The carriage was rather basic but comfortable enough. We made ourselves comfortable and sat back and enjoyed the ride. This is certainly no express service, but we weren’t in any hurry. The countryside we passed through was indeed lovely, and the small railway stations we passed through were charming and seemed of a different age.

The Pannier, Wetherspoons, Barnstaple

We arrived in Barnstaple about 12:30, both keen to find somewhere to eat. I picked up a map of the town from the Tourist Information office and we headed off in search of somewhere for lunch. We settled on Wetherspoons where we found a nice little window table that was comfortable and pleasant. I briefly made use of their wifi to drop everyone an email to say Mum and I were out for the day.

 

 

Mum, in Butcher's Row, Barnstaple

 

After lunch we spent a couple of hours wandering around Barnstaple. We walked through the old pannier market, but already the stalls were beginning to close down. Then we walked down Butcher’s Row, which is wonderfully quaint, still with the odd butcher’s shop in it. Apparently at one time there were 34 butchers shops operating in this street. It was all butchers one side, and all bakers the other.

We had tea and cake before catching the train for home. It was an enjoyable, rather lazy and relaxing day.

 

Train:

Sowton to Barnstaple

06 March 2010 – Walk: Axminster to Hawkchurch (12.1 Miles)

Synopsis: Time spent looking around Axminster early in the morning, searching out locations of old photographs. Then cross-country trek to Hawkchurch, a lovely peaceful village.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

This walk was to be a bit different from most walks I do in that (a) I was travelling by train as opposed to bus, and (b) I wanted to explore the locations within Axminster and Hawkchurch of some old photos from the Francis Frith collection. I discovered there were numerous photos of Axminster, and most of them I could place on a modern map of the town. It was my expectation that probably neither of these places would have changed very much in the passing years, an expectation that was to be borne out as the day went on.

Today was a repeat attempt at this walk, as originally I had planned to do this route on the previous weekend, but there had been some heavy rain overnight and the day did bode well, so I postponed it. Today started off dark; well, it was 5:30 am that I got up, as I wanted to put a meal in the slow cooker before I set off. Plus I had to walk to Pinhoe railway station, which I knew was 2 miles distance from home. I had breakfast, made sandwiches, put a meal in the slow cooker (pork and banana curry), and was on my way by 7:30 am. I was at Pinhoe station by 8:10 am, in plenty of time to catch the 8:35 train. It didn’t take long to get my tickets from the self-service ticket machine, and I was soon sitting on the platform putting my gaiter on. An elderly woman (yes, older than me!), came and sat by me. She told me she and her friend were off to the theatre in London, to see Love Never Dies, the latest Andrew Lloyd Webber musical. She told me it wasn’t quite her taste, but her friend wanted to see it. Apparently they’ll stay overnight in London. Sounded like a nice trip, but I decided I’d stick to my plans.

Arriving Axminster from railway station

The train was relatively quiet and punctually deposited me in Aximinster by 9:05. As I was running to schedule and the sun shone brightly I decided to spend a little time searching out some of the Francis Frith photographs of Axminster before starting on my walk proper. The first thing I’m faced with is sight of a Tesco filling station where I’m sure Station Road once was. Ah well! I guess it’s a station of sorts.

 

Trinity Square, Axminster

 

There was quite a bustle of activity in Axminster at this early hour. Lots of deliveries taking place, and a number of shoppers about. The old Francis Frith photographs around Trinity Square and St Mary’s Church were very easy to place, as this area had hardly changed at all. There weren’t that many give away signs that this wasn’t the 1950’s. There aren’t as many motorcycle and sidecars as there once were, but otherwise it looked like a town from the past.

Millbrook, Axminster

After about an hour of dawdling around in Aximinster, including a brief visit to St Mary’s, I decided I should be setting off on my walk. By going up Lyme Street I caught a photo of the Method Church, and then headed down a lane in the direction of Millbrook, site of another photo. I thought this one was going to be hard to place, but I was able to once again find the old landmarks in the new landscape. There has been a lot of development behind the old thatched mill which stands to this day, but it was easy to recognize the landscape. A little lane pulls up hill out the back of the mill, and this was my route out of Axminster.

I was keen to make Hawkchurch in time for an early lunch, so I set off across country at a good pace. There were some gentle ascents, but nothing too strenuous. In a number of places I could see the soil underfoot was quite different to typical red clay of Devon, in that it was a chalky sandy surface most commonly seen on a Downs landscape. To see what I mean, check out the later photos along the River Axe, where the river banks reveal all.

Snowdrops by the stream

At a crossroads in the lanes I saw some snowdrops in flower on the banks of a little stream. This made a very nice picture. I think the snowdrops are a little bit later this year, not surprising after the long cold winter we’ve had. I guess even snowdrops need a little warmth before they’ll show their heads.

I climbed one last hill and started on my descent into Hawkchurch when I saw a football field to my left, with some benches by the touchline. I decided this would make a good place to eat my lunch. By now the sky was a mix of harsh sunshine and threatening clouds, but it was quite pleasant to sit there, eat my lunch and make a cup of tea.

Hawkchurch

After lunch I descended down the lane into Hawkchurch. It was even easier to place the Francis Frith photos than it was in Axminster. The only thing I didn’t come across was the little old man with his horse and cart, as this had evidently been replaced by a Suzuki 4x4, something not quite so photogenic. Progress?

I searched the church cemetery looking for Rocketts, Mum’s maiden name, as the census had indicated there had been some living in the village, but there was no sign of their presence today. The church itself is quite attractive, and even has some capitals dating back to Norman times. If you look closely under the nave roof gutter you’ll see some Norman carvings.

Early house?

On my way back to Axminster I pass a quaint old house (that made me think of Manderley) and what was once an old mill, before descending further, crossing the railway line and following the Axe Valley. By this time the contours of Axminster are visible on the horizon not far ahead as I follow a path beside the meandering River Axe.

 

Castle Hill, Axminster

 

 

Finally I cross the railway line once again and ascend Castle Hill on my way into Axminster. Once again this is the site of a Francis Frith photograph which I struggle to place whilst on the walk, but subsequently found I could match it with one of my photographs. Some of the cottages have gone, but a large mill at the end of the road gives the game away.

Victoria Place, Axminster

 

I pass a building named the Regent, which I suspect was an old cinema in times past. I look at my boots with dismay and wonder if I’m going to be allowed on the train. They’re encrusted with a thick layer of mud and I’ve seemingly got no way to clean them. Then, on my approach to the railway station I see the Tesco filling station again, and the thought occurs to me that they usually have a water and air service stand, and that’s what I saw. I gave my boots a quick wash and they came up looking fit for travel, even on a carpet lined railway carriage. Saved again!

The train arrived on the dot at 16:04 and deposited me punctually in Pinhoe at 16:28, impressive speed. A quick call to Wendy and I arranged to meet up with her and Colin at Mum’s to share my pork curry with them later that evening. A bottle of red wine to wash it all down, proved a nice way to round off an excellent, if rather long, day.

I was left with the thought that with the superior speed of trains I could actually travel a bit further afield for a day’s walk; something to bear in mind for a future outing. For now I could think of nothing better than to be in bed.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 12.1 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 41min
Stopped Time: 1hr 21min
Total Ascent: 443 metres
Maximum Elevation: 172 metres

Train: Pinhoe - Axminster