Synopsis: Helen, Laura and I holiday in Italy. The first week (pt 1) was sight seeing in Rome and Florence, plus trip to Pisa. The second week was on Lake Garda, plus visits to Verona and Venice.
Saturday 22nd August: Heathrow to Rome. Obtain Roma Pass at airport tourist information office. Obtain train tickets to Rome Termini. At Rome Termini purchase train tickets for Florence for Wednesday. Fail miserably to find bus as bus map is far to complex to work out bus route to hotel, therefore walk 1.7 miles through the heat of Rome to reach hotel. Pleased to find we have a comfortable cool room. We take a drink and relax for only a short while before venturing out to discover our first experiences of Rome.
Trevi FountainStill baffled by the buses, we see a taxi nearby, and catch a lift to the Trevi Fountain. It feels like the whole of Rome is here. It’s a wonderful warm summer’s evening and there’s a very real party atmosphere amongst the many people gathered at the fountain. The sculptures are bathed in floodlight and the waters are a cool blue-green colour, just inviting a person to take a dip in the water, for which a person will incur a hefty fine of about E500. Anita Ekberg may have once got away with it, but we don’t fancy our chances, as there are police mingling with the crowds. We see a place selling take-away pizza so we purchase a snack and eat and drink this looking out on the fountain.
Piazza Navona
We then decide to head for Piazza Navona, which is known to be another glorious fountain that is lit up at night. Once again the place is reeling with people out enjoying the summer’s evening. The fountain sculptures are mesmerizing. Such scale and opulence all around is so seductive. As tired as we were, we’re still entranced and intoxicated by the beauty of the Piazza. Finally tiredness was getting the better of us, so we set off for the short trek back to our hotel.
Sunday 23rd August: For our first full day in Rome we planned to visit the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. As we approached the Colosseum we watched branches being lopped off an avenue of trees, presumably to make them safe. There was an oriental wedding taking place in sight of the Colosseum, just below the mammoth arch of Emperor Constantine, which surely makes for some spectacular wedding photos. All it needed was some gladiators in their chariots to make the photo complete. There were Roman soldiers all about; at least men dressed as such, should you need them to complete your picture. Helen and Laura didn’t think it necessary, presumably because they had me!
The ColosseumIt was good to be able to walk straight in past the long queue, because we had our Roma Passes. Ah ha! All that planning begins to pay off. There is an interesting display of information boards and Roman artefacts on show as you enter the Colosseum which we stop to study. Then finally we step out into the heat of the sun that blasts the centre of the Colosseum. It’s immediately obvious why the Romans had the foresight of having a canvas covering for the amphitheatre.
Scene of many an 'entertainment'
We stood looking down on the arena floor trying to imagine what it would have been like packed with Romans eager to be entertained. As we bring our modern tastes and sensibilities to the place, it’s a little difficult to quite empathise with the Romans of that period. Part of the wooden floor of the amphitheatre has been reconstructed, which serves to give an impression of what the Colosseum would have looked like when first brought into use.
After the Colosseum we next planned to visit the Roman Forum. This we knew was going to be quite gruelling, as it’s a vast open space offering very little shelter from the sun. Once again we get in using our Roma Pass cards. We struggle with finding our position in respect of an audio guide we planned to use. We find we’re starting this part way through, and only subsequently realise that the audio guide starts from outside of the part of the forum that requires a ticket to enter. Anyway, we decide we now have to do the inner forum first, and the introductory part last. Ok, not too clever that.
Septimus ArchMuch of the Roman Forum has been pillaged over time, but there remains enough to give a very real sense of the scale and grandeur of old Rome. We looked up at the old Palantine Hill which overlooks the forum and where the rich and powerful would have had their houses, or palaces, hence the word palantine. The parallels with modern times are very evident. The Septimus Arch stands big and bold, and appeared to be almost intact. It took us a little while to locate the circle described as being the centre of the world, but eventually we spotted it under a tin shelter. Not the most auspicious setting for something so momentous as this.
Ancient bronze statue of Aurelis
Finally we exit the Roman Forum by way of the Capitaline Hill (from which we get the word capital). This brings us to a statue of Remus and Romulus being fed by a wolf, at the spot where Rome was said to have been founded. There is also a statue of Aurelis, apparently the most complete bronze statue from ancient times in existence. We descended some steps to eventually find ourselves at Piazza Venezia. From here we caught a bus back to our hotel.
Monday 24th August: The Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica. Castel San Angelo. Piazza de Popolo.
Vatican Museum - marble bathWe caught a bus from the hotel to the Vatican. I’d pre-booked a guided tour of the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel, and thank goodness I had. We arrived at the Vatican just after 10am and already there were horrendous queues to get in, which we of course walked right past. We were given radio headsets from which we could listen to our guide. These proved ideal, as there were so many guided groups all about us, and yet we could easily track and hear our guide. We were told a little of the history of the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel and Michelangelo’s work before we set off on our tour. There was so much to see and this did feel rather like a whistle-stop tour. This marble bath caught my eye; I could imagine myself bathing in this.
The ceiling of the Sistine ChapelFrom the Vatican Museum our guide directed us to the entrance to the Sistine Chapel. This awe inspiring room decorated by Michelangelo is almost too much to take in. The room was packed with people all trying to take photographs and making a constant throng, despite the vain attempts of officials to prevent both. The low light and constant jostle of people meant it was impossible to really photograph well; you’ll have to take my word for it: it’s a sight worth seeing!
Piazza de Popolo looking towards St PetersWe find a little pizza restaurant not far from Piazza de Popolo and have some supper. After this we return to the piazza and climb to the view point that overlooks the square. It provides a superb vantage point, looking out over the city with Castel San Angelo and St Peter’s Basilica clearly visible. The sun is beginning to set by this time, so we stayed on briefly to take some photos before wandering off in the direction of the metro station at Piazza de Espagna which is close by. We weren’t alert enough to realize that the Spanish Steps lead onto this Piazza, otherwise we might have stopped to see these by night. Instead we head for the underground train, which whisks us speedily to Rome Termini, where we hop on a bus for our hotel.
Tuesday 25th August: The Pantheon, Spanish Steps, souvenier hunting and Pisa.
Piazza della Rotonda - fountain designed c.1575We walked across to the Pantheon from our hotel. It was still quite early when we arrived and the air seemed fresh and crisp. Before entering the Pantheon we wandered around the Piazza della Rotonda in the centre of which is a large fountain with an obelisk erected in the centre.
Spanish Steps
From the Pantheon we walked to the Spanish Steps. This is a pretty place where there are many people relaxing and drinking from the boat fountain that lies at the bottom of the steps. We stop for a while, take a drink ourselves, and soak in the view.
Villa d'Este, TivoliWe purchased take-away pizzas and eat these whilst waiting for our tour bus. Coach tour to Villa d’Este. The gardens are a maze of water features. There appeared to be a boundless flow of water emanating from every corner of the garden. Although we have the opportunity to also visit Hadrian’s Villa, we decide not to do that, but instead spend all our tour time at the Villa d’Este. A relaxing stroll around these gardens was the ideal antidote to the hustle and bustle, not to say heat, of Rome. All the fountains in the gardens are fed by the gravitational force of water from a natural source nearby. The water, once used by the garden, is redirected back into it’s natural water course.
Wednesday 26th August: This morning we were to leave Rome for Florence. All we needed to do was get to Rome Termini to catch our train, but this proved to be harder than it sounds. We were waiting at the bus stop, knowing that the H bus would take us direct to the railway station. Then a Tram pulls up nearby, which seems to indicate its destination is also the station, so we hop on it. Mistake! The tram gets less than half way towards the station when it stops at what, from the fact everyone else has got off it, is obviously a terminus. No time to work out what went wrong. We see a bus marked Piazza Venezia, which we know to be a big bus junction, so we jump on it. Once at Piazza Venezia, we round the corner and discover a bus marked Rome Termini, so jump on this. A little more stressful than it should have been, but we did get to Rome Termini in plenty of time to catch our train, which was already waiting for us.
The train journey between Rome and Florence took about one and a half hours. The train we travelled on was spacious, comfortable and air conditioned, making for a very pleasant journey to Florence, where we arrived a little ahead of schedule (163 miles, average speed 116 mph, maximum speed 160 mph). After having disembarked and walked the length of the station I have a panic attack thinking I’d left my GPS device on the train. I run the length of the platform, and dart on the carriage, but it’s not there. Laura caught up with by this time, and said, “It’s alright Daddy, your GPS is in your bag.” Phew! Why do I worry so much?
Snacking it in Florence (Laura’s photo)We caught a bus just outside of Florence Termini which took us direct to our hotel. We were checked into our room before 2pm. As we had so much time on our hands, plus bus tickets which still had some time to run, we decided upon making our way to the Galeria Academia where we knew we would see Michelangelo’s David. The strange thing about this place, something I well remember from my last visit nearly thirty years ago, is how unimposing the building looks, and yet it contains some of the greatest art treasures in the world. We very much enjoyed our time in the gallery, but don’t have any photos as photography is not permitted. We were exhausted by the end of our visit to the gallery. We found a grocery store nearby where we bought some bread and salami and had a picnic meal in a piazza nearby. I manage to get crumbs everywhere, which greatly amuses Laura, to the point whereby she has to take a photo (see right).
DuomoFrom here we walked in the direction of the Duomo. Here we sat on the steps of the cathedral, along with many other people, watching the people drift by. There was one beggar lady dressed in white and face made up in white, who would wander up to people and stick a rose in their face, then frown, pucker up, and go ‘kiss, kiss’. Ask Laura to demonstrate what she did; Laura does it so beautifully.
Michelangelo's David in the Piazza della Signoria
We then headed down a street full of many glamorous shops, walking in the direction of Piazza della Signoria where a copy of Michelangelo’s David stands. I find that David has been considerably cleaned up since the last time I’d seen him when he seemed to have been covered in pigeon excrement. Laura and Helen play at posing like David.
There you see the Ponte Vechio!
As we wandered back to our hotel the light began to fade. On the bridge of the River Arno, almost back at our hotel, we stop for a while to look at the Ponte Vechio which we viewed from the next bridge along the river.
Thursday 27th August: The following morning we eat breakfast on the terrace of our hotel which is a most pleasant way to start the day.
Laura and the lionThen Laura insists on us making out for Piazza della Signoria once again, as she is not happy with her David pose of the previous evening. She had hoped it would be quiet in the square that early in the morning, but the place was heaving with people once again. Still, Laura’s not the sort of person to let something like that get her down.
The Baptistry doors
We then headed for the Baptistry where we hoped we might get a clear view of the door, but once again we were beaten by the crowds of tourists. Just momentarily the crowds parted allowing me the shot left. Eventually we join this huge queue to enter the cathedral. The interior of the cathedral is a vast space that is relatively austere. And then we went on to the Museo Archelogico to view some artefacts from Italian and Egyptian history. There’s even a bust of Ippolito Rosellini, the Egyptologist.
Piazza Michelangelo viewpoint
That evening, after resting for a while back at our hotel room, we climbed the hill out the back of our hotel up to Piazza Michelangelo. This is a favourite evening spot with the people, and always has been. There weren’t the pavement artists that I recollect from my previous visit, but in all other respects it remains the same. We were even able to look down on the campsite that we used all that time ago, and even see the pitch on which our tent would have stood. I remember there having been a firework display over the city of Florence back then. We weren’t treated to such a display on this visit, but we did watch a splendid sunset over the city.
Friday 28th August: In the morning we head out for the Boboli Gardens which are attached to the Pitti Palace, which isn’t far from our hotel.
Boboli Gardens
Ponte Vechio
From the Boboli Gardens we set off for the Ponte Vechio, which we find to be teeming with people. Every shop on the bridge appeared to be a jewellery shop. Because of their location they are very shallow, and it’s easy to look though them out to the River Arno. I remember on my last visit here all the prices were in Lira, and my being amused by the number of zeros attached to every price tag. The figures, now they’re in Euros, seem a little more human.
Near to the Ponte Vechio we found a pizza take-away shop and decide to purchase some lunch. This we eat whilst waiting for our coach which is to take us on our afternoon tour to Pisa.
Baptistry, PisaWe found the centre of Pisa to be even more crowded with tourists than Florence. Had we picked the busiest week in the year to have our holiday? Everywhere we had visited during our week in Rome and Florence seemed to be packed with people, so many more than on my previous visit to these places. I’m uncertain if this is because of the month in which we’re holidaying, or the fact that there are so many more tourists than there used to be; I suspect a combination of both of these factors.
The Leaning Tower of PisaIt’s always a bit of a shock when one sees just how far the Tower of Pisa does lean. It doesn’t look safe. Everyone wanted to take the classic trick shot of seemingly holding up the tower. Of course we wouldn’t be caught dead doing such a thing :-) The nearby area has been cordoned off and is free of traffic, but far from free of tourist shops. There seem to be hundreds of them. We had a guided tour of the Baptistry, and then given time to wonder around the area. People are allowed up the tower on a ticket, but apparently only 30 at a time, and you’re only given 30 minutes to climb to the top and back down again. I guess this way if it should fall down it limits the damage.
Saturday 29th August: Today we’re due to leave Florence for Lake Garda. We have a hire car organized, which we’re scheduled to pick up from the Avis office, which is a walk of just over a mile. We’re there a littler early, just before 10am, but we’re soon fitted up with a car. We’re given a free upgrade, as there’s a car that needs to be returned to Milan. That’s handy, as I’d only reserved a little Fiat Punto, which could have been a bit of a squeeze.
View of Florence from FiesoleWe set out from Florence on the road to Fiesole, along the so called Strada Panoramica, taking us along a cypress lined road that gradually ascends the hill. From here it is said there are splendid views out over the town of Florence. We parked the car and walked up the hill through the village and found a good vantage point, and yes we looked right across the valley in which Florence lies. There was a considerable heat haze which slightly blurred the view, but it was still worth stopping to take in.
From here we planned to take a major road, but not the auto strada, north from Florence in the direction of Bologna. My GPS takes us on this very narrow lane over a high hill, but once over this we find ourselves on a reasonably good road on which we’re able to make swift progress. This proved to be a lovely road taking us through some spectacular hills, and well worth the minor detour. We did however have a little bit of trouble picking up the auto strada, but once we found our way onto this, we were soon speeding on our way to Lake Garda.
On route we needed to pick up some groceries. I said to everyone, look out for a grocery store and I’ll stop. Helen spoted a Penny Market, apparently a store they have in Germany, so I pull over and we get our groceries. We drive without hitch straight to our apartment, named the Turelli Apartments, direction finding courtesy of my GPS. The last few kilometers took us this narrow, steep winding road, and then the tarmac ran out and we found ourselves on gravel, which was a little daunting. But there we found it, just as in the picture. The cheerful owner was there to greet us, and we were soon settled in. The view from our second story apartment was fantastic. We looked out over Lake Garda, and realised instantly what a splendid place we’d found for ourselves. We had arrived by 17:30 and were eating dinner by 19:00. I put some music on and we eat and drank wine and gazed upon our splendid view of the lake.
Photo from series showing changing cloud formations over Lake Garda (Laura’s photo)Laura and I noticed how the clouds were rapidly changing shape to dramatic effect, so we placed Laura’s camera on her Gorilla Pod and took a photo every minute, as the light gradually faded into night. The series came out rather well (see a shot from the series left). It was time to chill out and relax; at least that was the theory!
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