Synopsis: Totnes to Paignton, via Stoke Gabriel. Familiar territory but lovely country just the same, with plenty to see. Sights include: spring blooms, river views, buckets and spades, and steam traction.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album) The disregarded becomes a carpet of colour, that’s the theme of this walk, if it needs a theme. I strive to make a place in our consideration for the the lowly buttercup and wild garlic. There were swathes of both on this walk, and quite a stunning picture they made.
Preparing to set sail from TotnesI arrived in Totnes just after 10.00, when the town seemed to be still in the process of waking. I merely hesitated a while on the bridge to admire the river and watch the odd boat sail by before heading out on my walk. As I headed up hill through the suburbs of Totnes I noticed a sign on someone’s shed that reads ‘WD notice – no soldiers to enter here’. Now, since I take that to be War Department, it surely has to be WW II. I presume no one thought to tell the people of Totnes that the war is over.
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On 7th March 2013 the BBC posted some photos of old paddle steamers on their web site under the heading “Keeping Britain’s paddle steamers afloat”. One of the photos was of the Kingswear Castle, built in 1924, and providing a ferry service between Totnes and Dartmouth up until its withdrawal in 1965. Apparently she is the last remaining coal-fired paddle steamer in operation in the UK today. I think that’s quite something, and now she’s returned to Devon. See also paddle steamer at Kingsbridge on Francis Frith.
Field of buttercups Although for the length of this walk the path kept me close to the River Dart which flows through Totnes, the river remained obscured until I reached Stoke Gabriel. It seems a lost opportunity that there are not footpaths, tracks or lanes that get anywhere near the river on this side of it. If it’s a walk with views of the River Dart that a person is wanting, the opposite side of the river is by far the best bet, but then I knew that anyway, and was happy to content myself with country views on this walk.
What glorious buttercups!
As I dropped down through this field to a lane, two families together were coming across the field with blankets and hampers in hand, obviously set for a picnic on the hillside. Now, that is civilized. The children seemed to be so happy just to be out in the country with their parents. Oh, for the simple pleasures of life.
Stoke GabrielStoke Gabriel has such a fantastic setting on the River Dart. In many ways it seems to me the quintessential Devon village, with it’s quay so fitting for a county with such strong ties with all things water. As I walked by Mill Pond there were children with their parents fishing for crabs from the weir side. There were a lot of visitors and cars near here, so I strolled around to the other bank of Mill Pond where I found a bench on which to eat my lunch and brew up.
View across all of Torbay
At this point I’m forced even further from the river, and have set upon a course for Goodrington. On route I passed a superstore, Sainsbury’s, so I popped in for some fresh bread (all part of the grand plan!). I then picked up a path that took me up over a hill and then dropped into Torbay. The view I had was right across the bay. There’s a little play park I passed where the boys, being boys, are playing football. It has to be one of the most scenic play parks in the country, but of course the children are not aware of this.
Goodrington cliff walkAt Goodrington I took up a perch at a favourite spot of mine, the cliffs that overlook the beach. From here I saw and heard the steam trains shuffling by behind the beach. Once again, an idyllic setting, that could be anytime in the last hundred years. My simple 30-sec video diary burst is shot here.
I then dropped down into Paignton, past the Fawlty Towers look-alike establishments (very nearly with a view of the sea). The sun was out and hordes of people were milling about, and as I walked towards the bus station, a walk done since I was knee-high to an ant, I got the impression that things haven’t changed very much. Still the same amusement arcades, ice cream shops, fish-‘n’-chip cafes and tacky souvenir shops. The only thing that’s different is Woolworths has closed down.
Steam train leaves Paignton Railway Station
The video on the left was filmed from the top floor of a double-decker bus whilst waiting at a level crossing for a steam train to pass down the track.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 12.0 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 27min
Stopped Time: 1hr 3min
Total Ascent: 447 metres
Maximum Elevation: 91 metres
Buses: X64, & X46
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