Synopsis: A repeat walk with ex-colleagues following parts of the John Musgrave Heritage Trail. Includes brief visits of Berry Pomeroy Castle (EH) and Totnes Castle (EH).
This walk was undertaken with a small group of ex-colleagues of mine. We wished to do a public transport based walk, and I offered up this walk, one that I was familiar with, knowing it to be a very interesting linear walk, only achievable without a car. The previous occasions I’d done this walk and blogged in 26 April 2008 - Walk: Torquay to Totnes (9.4 miles) and in 18 June 2015 - Walk: Torquay to Totnes - John Musgrave Heritage Trail (9.0 Miles). The only significant difference to my previous walks being that this time, rather than use buses, we opted to use trains. Both modes of public transport are quite possible. Trains are a little more efficient, and provide better options for returning from Totnes, with direct services running more frequently than buses and later into the evening. Please see further details of trains used and the tickets on which we travelled below in the Walk Statistics section of this blog post. The train times out I’ve given from Polsloe Bridge, which is the station I used; I was joined by my fellow walkers at St Thomas railway station. I was walk leader for the day, navigation being my responsibility. The walk takes in Berry Pomeroy Castle (EH) and Totnes Castle (EH).
The day started a little overcast and damp, but by the time we’d reached Torquay Station (9:49) the weather was appearing to clear. We strolled out to the coast and paused a moment at Corbyn Head to look out over the tranquil sea of Torbay. It was still quite early and relatively sleepy.
We then picked up the path that wends its way from Livermead Sands through a valley following the stream that flows through Cockington. I took us past the picturesque series of lakes which form part of Cockington Court. Plenty of bright colour was provided by the rhododendrons that line these lakes. We passed the Gamekeeper’s Cottage, a beautiful thatched cottage tucked in under the trees. This building, having laid dormant for years, is being renovated and will become accommodation for six estate volunteers when made ready. Great to see the building looking so resplendent and back in use once again.
We then walked towards the manor house, branching to the left to follow a path that took us up to the Church of St George and St Mary (Listed Grade II*). This is a lovely little church, full of warmth and charm, and perhaps a little surprise tucked away here, adjacent to Cockington Court manor house.
We then strolled through the walled rose garden to what was once the stable block. These have been converted into craft studios. There is a blacksmiths workshop, and a glassblower. The blacksmith wasn’t about, but glassblowers were going about their business, attracting a small crowd of onlookers, with us playing our part in that.
Conscious that we still had plenty of walking to do, I led us out the back of Cockington Court, picking up a public footpath that climbed steadily along a track, eventually jettisoning us into fields. By now the day was starting to warm nicely, although the air was humid and sticky making the walking quite demanding.
Crossing the busy A380 with a good deal of care, as the traffic was heavy and travelling very fast. We were relieved to complete the short section by this road, and be once again in the quiet lanes heading in the direction of Marldon. We were only 3.6 miles into our walk (11:50), but already it felt as if we’d left the bustling seaside resort of Torquay far behind. We dipped down the hillside into Marldon and then climbed the steep lane out the other side, the steepest ascent of this walk.
Catching our breath at the top of the hill, we then left the lane via a footpath to our left, and were soon out crossing fields with wide expansive views of Devon countryside all around.
It wasn’t long before people were saying they were getting hungry. I said that I’d like to make Berry Pomeroy Castle (EH) for lunch, if we possibly could. The little suppressed grumbling arising from the group I chose to ignore, and on we walked. In one field a number of bullocks were curious and came to watch us walk by. A little further on we passed Loventor (Listed Grade II), originally a Tudor manor house which was later extended during Georgian times.
After covering 6.1 miles into our walk (13:10) we reached Berry Pomeroy Castle. We talked briefly with the English Heritage warden in the ticket office about the ghosts that haunt the castle (which apparently are played down by English Heritage), we entered through the gatehouse. We chose a grass bank on which to perch ourselves, which was where we settled down to eat our lunches. People were happy once again. We were now about half way into our walk.
After lunch we took a little time out to stroll around the castle. English Heritage do supply a very good audio guide, but we felt we couldn’t spare the time today. Berry Pomeroy castle led a double life, once as a fortress, and then converted into a manor house. It sits high on a rock promontory with views over what was once its walled deer park. It is deemed to be the most haunted place in Devon. We saw no ghosts today. We did see birds that had nested in the chapel which we were unable to identify.
Leaving the castle we back-tracked a little, dropping rapidly to the lake below the castle. From here we picked up a lane which is once again part of the John Musgrave Heritage Trail. Our way took us onto a track through woods. At this stage the walk is relatively level and easy going, if a little muddy in places. After a short stretch along lanes we picked up a track to our right that climbed quite steeply, passing a traveller’s site as we went. Continuing down a shallow valley, we were by now not far from Totnes, although Totnes remained tantalisingly out of sight. Because Totnes itself nestles in a valley, it is not seen before one finds oneself entering the backstreets of the town.
So, there we were, soon upon Totnes Bridge. The sun was shining and the day was hot, and we were pretty tired. But, undeterred, we ploughed on up the main street of Totnes with our aim of obtaining Totnes Castle as our next objective. Totnes Castle is a classic motte-and-bailey castle, one of the earliest to have been built in this country by the Normans. From the ramparts extensive views are to gained over Totnes, the surrounding countryside, and down the River Dart.
And so, that completed our walk today. We descended from Totnes Castle in the direction of Totnes Railway Station, a mere 10 minute walk away, having walked the full 13.7 miles (17:28). A brief wait of 20 minutes and we were aboard a train hurtling towards our home town of Exeter. To complete the day we walked from St David’s station to the Mill on the Exe pub, found a table by the river, and ordered our supper. It was the perfect way to round off a good day’s walking.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 22.1 km / 13.7 miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 10min
Stopped Time: 2hrs 18min
Total Ascent: 564 metres
Maximum Elevation: 146 metres
Buses: (none)
Trains: Polsloe Bridge to Torquay (out) / Totnes to Exeter St David’s (return)
Devon Day Ranger with Devon & Cornwall Railcard: £6:60
…… Normal ticket price, without railcard discount (33%) would have been: £10.00
Train out: 08:47 – 09:49 (1hr 2mins) – no changes
Train return: 17:51 – 18:23 (32mins) – no changes (from Totnes)
