Synopsis: With it being a late autumn, there was plenty of lingering autumn colours to be seen. So unbelievably quiet in this part of Devon. Utter peace, with not a soul to be seen, except in Chulmleigh.
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)
More Tarka Line Walks
This walk is derived from walk ‘King’s Nympton’ (p.32) in the book More Tarka Line Walks by Peter Craske. This book followed upon an earlier publication, not surprisingly titled Tarka Line Walks. I believe that both of these books are now superseded by one bumper book called Tarka Line Walks. I don’t have a copy of this new book, but it’s likely that my walk today will be found in this new edition. The walks from this book are intended to be accessed from the Tarka Line that connects Barnstaple and Exeter. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.
The walks described in More Tarka Line Walks are well written up, with an interesting narrative describing what will be seen during the walk, and adequate walking directions to navigate the route. An Ordnance Survey 1/25k map showing the walk route is printed for each of the walks, making it possible to navigate the route without a separate map, although having one’s own map is always advisable.
King's Nympton railway station
I arrived at King’s Nympton railway station punctually and was walking by 9:20am. King’s Nympton railway station is in the valley of the River Taw, quite some distance from King’s Nympton itself, which I wouldn’t in fact be visiting today. My guide book described today’s walk as ‘along the high ridge lying east of the River Taw’. Not long after setting out I turned onto a track, and just as expected, I was soon beginning a long steady ascent out of the Taw Valley.
View of the Taw Valley
I glanced back over my shoulder at the Taw Valley stretching into the distance. What with it having been a late autumn this year, there was still considerable autumn colour to be seen. The sun was low, never to attain any real height on this winter’s day, casting a glow rather than a light on the scene before me.
Sheep may safely graze
What struck me most of all was the peace and tranquillity in which I was immersed. I suppose that shows just what a city boy (euphemistic?) I am. Living in Exeter, one gets accustomed to the constant background noise all about, and it’s only on escaping to the country, particularly that of mid-Devon, that one really appreciates the joy of silence.
Chulmleigh - thatched cottages and cobbled pavements
The first thing I noticed on entering Chulmleigh was a line of quaint cottages with a cobbled path out front, complete with water pump. Chulmleigh, although hacked about a bit over time, has quite a number of really picturesque corners like this, that make it very endearing.
I thought the Post Office looked quaint, and quite unmistakable in its bright red colours. Would the large doors to the right have been where horses would once have been led through to be stabled?
Chulmleigh - the old market hall
My guidebook mentions the ‘market house’ which it describes as conceived ‘in an effort to boost the town’s declining fortunes, never saw the activity for which it was intended.’ Today it was housing a coffee morning (‘50p a cup, but very noisy, as it’s full of women’, a local gentleman told me). I said, ‘It’s the old market hall, isn’t it?’. He replied, ‘Is it?’ I suppose, who really cares but me? It quite obviously sees more trade today in coffee, biscuits and a good natter than it ever did as a centre for the wool trade. Hey ho!
Chulmleigh - Church of St Mary Magdalene
The parish church of St Mary Magdalene is of some distinction (Listed Grade I), so I poked my nose in for a peak around. On a previous visit I noted how nice it was to be looked down on by the angels that adorn the wagon roof. Other things caught my notice on this repeat visit. There’s a marvellous brass chandelier hanging in the nave. And then I noticed this wonderful carving in the porch. Described in the church’s listing as ‘Above the inner doorway is a probably Norman square stone with a figure of the Crucifixus in a roundel.’ Delightful!
Chulmleigh - Church of St Mary Magdalene
On a previous visit to Chulmleigh (23 June 2012 – Walk: Chawleigh and Chulmleigh (14.5 Miles)) I had noticed how fine the railings are, and subsequently discovered that these are Listed Grade II, but failed to get a photograph on that occasion. This omission now rectified.
A bit of sheep herding
As I left Chulmleigh I descended steeply down Rock Lane on Rock Hill, the start of an ancient track that once led all the way to Copplestone, until I reached a footbridge over the Little Dart River. Sheep that had escaped their field greeted me on the far side, and for a while I became a shepherd driving his flock along the track. There was after all little else I could do in this situation. Luckily they climbed the bank and fled back into their field part way along the track.
Upcott Woods - my lunch stop in the sun
Making my way through Upcott Wood I noticed that it was approaching noon and I was by now well into my walk, so I planned to break for lunch. Luckily I found a south facing bank of grass in the sun that made for the perfect picnic spot. A curious robin put in an appearance, perhaps hoping for crumbs (and there are always crumbs with me), my only company over lunch.
Eggesford railway station
I actually got back to Eggesford railway station a whole hour earlier than I anticipated as my quickest time. I caught the 13:07 train in the direction home. I mulled over the fact that I was early and the day quite glorious, and chose to disembark from the train early at Exeter Central, and opted to walk along the towpath of the Exeter Canal back to my home.
Nice to be able to travel by train to my walk today. The Tarka Line makes for a lovely journey, to be especially recommended at this time of year, when it passes through swathes of warm autumn colour.
Note: Although I’ve only clocked two walks from the book More Tarka Line Walks, I’ve become aware that the walk 23 June 2012 – Walk: Chawleigh and Chulmleigh (14.5 Miles) which was derived from the book Walk! Devon covers a lot of the route Eggesford from More Tarka Line Walks (p.28). Combined with the route that I’ve walked today, I shall consider this walk as described in More Tarka Line Walks also one that I’ve clocked.
Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 6.7 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 37min
Stopped Time: 32min
Total Ascent: 393 metres
Maximum Elevation: 182 metres
Buses: (none)
Train: Digby & Sowton to King’s Nympton (Off-peak return: £8.70)
