30 March 2013 – Walk: Seatown to Charmouth (7.6 Miles)

Synopsis: Short but steep, that was today’s walk. Climbing Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast of England, takes a bit of effort, but that is well rewarded. Long but comfortable bus journeys.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

A quite considerable amount of bus travel was required for today’s walk, since it is just over the border in Dorset. As I’ve recently walked the whole of the south Devon coastal path, I thought it worth the effort to venture a little further afield. This stretch of coast is stunning, and very well rewards the amount of bus travel time needed to achieve it.

Chideock - Parish Church of St Giles - Grade I Listed

Two hours after leaving Exeter I reached Chideock at 11:00, my drop-off point. As charming as the buildings are, unfortunately it suffers from the lack of a by-pass, therefore the main street is very busy. I paused merely long enough to capture a few snaps, one of which was of the Parish Church of St Giles (Grade I Listed). Subsequently discovering it’s listed status, I wish I’d taken the time out to see if it was open.

I picked up Mill Lane in Chideock which takes a level course down to Seatown, not surprisingly, on the coast.

Seatown

I walked down to the sea at Seatown (not to be confused with Seaton a little further west of here). The solitary cafe on the beach, and toilets, are about all the facilities on offer here, but then, perhaps that’s all one requires on a trip to the beach. Seatown beach occupies a picturesque location with splendid views along the coast in both directions, and on my visit today the soft mottled light was lovely.

The Beach c1965, Seatown © Francis Frith

 

 

I thought this was an interesting photo of Seatown, taken circa 1965, from the Francis Frith collection. You’ll notice a man wearing what appears to be a lampshade in the foreground.

But frivolity aside, it’s possible to see that the cliff line has changed very little in the last fifty years.

The next place east of Seatown is West Bay, apparently named this by the railway company when it arrived here, previously known as Bridport Harbour (Devon Town Trails: Exeter and East Devon). The intention was obviously to entice holiday makers to use this route to the sea. Apparently West Bay has quite a TV & film history, including the famous opening sequence to Reggie Perrin, and the more recent Broadchurch series. But east is east, and west is west, and, despite the preference in the lyric, it’s the latter that’s my direction from Seatown.

Golden Cap - highest point on the southern coastline of England

 

 

I back-tracked a little along the lane to pick up the coast path west from Seatown. I climbed steadily at first, often glancing over my shoulder at the wonderful view along the coast. On a clear day such as this it’s easy to see Chesil Beach and beyond that Portland Bill. My objective, Golden Cap, loomed dauntingly high above me as I made my way at a very, very steady pace in that direction.

 

 

Golden Cap - Looking east over Seatown, along Chesil Beach, as far as Portland Bill

 

I reached the summit of Golden Cap, the highest point on England’s southern coast, at about 12:30. The sun was shining, it was warm ducked down out of the chill wind, the views were stunning, and I was hungry. Put all those together, and what better time could there be to stop for lunch. Some people seemed very close to the cliff edge, but I decided to play safe, and was a comfortable distance from the edge. Aware of the number of landslips there have been in the last twelve months, I wasn’t taking any chances.

The ruined St Grabriel's church

My guide book makes mention of the ruined church of St Gabriel to which a path leads just a short distance from the summit of Golden Cap. I decided that I’d like to make this short detour off the coast path and explore. The ruined church is the smallest of churches. Apparently Stanton St Gabriel (the hamlet’s full name) was a small Saxon enclave, the earliest recorded mention of which dates to 1086. I understand the Saxons were reluctant Christians, but I suppose they capitulated, at least by 1240, first record of St Gabriel’s Chapel.

The enclave Stanton St Gabriel

 

I read rather interestingly in my guide book: “In former times the main road, now destroyed by erosion, came through the village of St Gabriel’s, which was a thriving community. From St Gabriel’s I followed a path that looped me back onto the coast path. I wasn’t long on the coast path when I encountered the first of my diversions, this being necessary due to the collapse of a footbridge yet to be replaced. The diversion instructions were not that obvious and it took me a couple of attempts to find my way.

Cain's Folly

Once back on the coastal footpath it wasn’t long before I was once again climbing steadily, testing the old calf muscles once again. I reached the peak of what is named on the map as Cain’s Folly. The question came to mind, is this the place where Cain had his little mishap with the sheep in Far from the Madding Crowd?

 

Cain's Folly - Looking down on Charmouth

 

 

Here I was confronted with the second of my diversions. A notice informed me that a section of the footpath had disappeared due to a landslip and that it was necessary for me to detour right to the Stonebarrow National Trust car park, from where I was then to follow the lane down into Charmouth. I wandered into Charmouth on The Street and part way along diverted left to the beach.

Charmouth - looking east

 

I’d reached Charmouth by 15:00, with two hours to spare before my bus for Exeter was due. I strolled along the beach for a bit, and actually stumbled upon part of a fossil in the sand, which I was quite chuffed about. I then sat on a low wall and had a snack whilst watching the play of the sun on the waves looking out across the bay as far as Lyme Regis, with the Cobb instantly recognisable on the horizon.

Stupendous walking, although the joys had to be earned. But then, perhaps it’s the hard earned pleasures which are the most satisfying. The buses the First company run on this route are first class, so the journeys to-and-fro the walk were comfortable and pleasant. A highly recommended walk easily done by public transport from Exeter, or for that matter, any one of a number of other points along the bus route. I think I might return soon to this coast and do the stretch West Bay to Seatown.

Navigational Note: It is usual for me to map my own GPS route but for this walk I found the route already mapped as Section 46: Seaton to Seatown on the South West Coast Path web site. On the route web page you’ll note a Download the KML file to view in Google Earth link (just below ‘3D Fly Through’). I converted this file to a .GPX file using the gpsvisualizer web site and then loaded it to my Garmin MapSource program where I reversed the route and clipped out the part that I wished to walk. I believe the South West Coast Path web site has the whole of the coastal path mapped in this way, so it is theoretically possible to do this for any section of the path you choose to walk. I found the walk route very accurately mapped when using it to navigate with my Garmin GPSMAP 60CSX. It did not of course have the diversions resulting from failed footbridge and landslip.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 7.6 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 22min
Stopped Time: 40min
Total Ascent: 543 metres
Maximum Elevation: 196 metres

Buses: X53 (First Day South West £7.90)

12 March 2013 – Walk: Plym Valley (14.7 Miles)

Synopsis: Dismantled railway lines and river banks provide the majority of the walking on this trek by the River Plym. The bare winter trees lining the hills provided dramatic backdrop to the day’s walking.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Adventurous Pub Walks in Devon

This walk is derived from walk 18 in the book Adventurous Pub Walks in Devon by Michael Bennie. This book, which I borrowed from the library, has about 20 walks described in it. This is the first of my walks from this book that I have attempted. I completed most of this walk, although unfortunately I didn’t quite reach the destination village of Shaugh Prior, where the pub of the book title is to be found, as I needed to trim some time from the walk to stand a chance of catching my bus back to Exeter (which, as it happens, I failed to do anyway – see below). This walk today was marvellous and stands as high recommendation for the book. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.

 

 

I failed to get going early enough this morning which resulted in my having to catch a bus from Exeter (the 10:45) later than that which would have been ideal. Still, the sun was shining, and despite a strong chill wind, I was keen to give this walk a go. I was walking in Plymouth by 12:10 which was reasonable.

Weighbridge Cottage

My walk today required a 1.9 mile (40 minute) extension to reach the guide book start at Plym Bridge, since I was travelling by bus and needed to get from Marsh Mills roundabout to the start point. This was easy, level and mostly pleasant, once away from Marsh Mills roundabout, following the railway route not far from the River Plym. On the way I passed Weighbridge Cottage, rather Tyrolean looking by the river.

 

 

Scouts waiting for the train at Clearbrook Halt on the Launceston to Plymouth line in August 1962. Photo: Peter Gray. © Peter Gray/BBC

 

 

 

I’ve since read ‘Historic journey marks Plymouth rail line's reopening’ which tells of the reopening of this line from Marsh Mills to Plym Bridge. There has been talk of a ‘Bid to reopen old train line’ all the way to Tavistock; could that possibly happen?

Plym Bridge - car park

 

 

 

There were very few cars in the National Trust managed car park at Plym Bridge, but I believe this car park can get quite busy, particularly at weekends. Plym Bridge is a popular parking place for cyclists about to make use of the Plym Valley Cycle Path.

Plym Bridge - Plym Bridge Woods - detail from information board

 

I was amused by a story told on the Plym Bridge Woods information board. Apparently the car park was once Plym Bridge Halt, used by Victorian visitors who would alight from trains out of Plymouth to stroll in the woodland and beside the river. Families used a service known as the Woolworths Special, so called because it cost sixpence to use the train, the same price as the highest cost item from the store in those days. Walk guide: Historic Walking Trail through Plymbridge Woods (National Trust).

River Plym

The railway track ends at Plym Bridge, and from there the walk route follows the banks of the River Plym. It was refreshing how unspoilt the countryside was such a short distance from the busy traffic of Marsh Mills roundabout. I immediately felt as if I’d left the modern world far behind as I walked by the glinting waters of the River Plym.

 

 

River Plym - weir

I soon came upon a delightful spot near the Weir that’s in the shadow of Cann Viaduct. In fact this spot was so delightful, and my tummy so empty, I chose to stop here to eat my picnic lunch. I sat just across the water, on the west bank, from where I approached it on the east bank. How to get there? Well, that requires a little manoeuvring which I’ll explain: from the east bank of weir return from weir to viaduct and as you approach divert left to climb steeply to viaduct; cross viaduct and then immediately divert left, and then left again, descending to the west bank of River Plym and then follow the course of the river once again.

River Plym

 

After lunch I continued on my walk north following the west bank of the River Plym. This is very easy walking being mostly level. I’ve always loved walking by water so this was proving a real treat. I slightly overshot the exit path from the river which is to be found just as a lane is approached south-east of  Bickleigh.

 

 

Start of what once was a 'permissive way'

A little complication was encountered at the point where a permissive path was, according to the guide book, supposed to start. The path sign had obviously had a saw taken to it as its ‘fingers’ were missing. Evidence that the path is still walked seemed clear so I decided to give it a go but a little way in I was met by a chiselled sign saying ‘Private – path closed’. I decided to retrace my steps back to the road and pick up the public right of way a little way further north along the lane. This took me back onto my original course. Whether you take my route or the not so ‘permissive’ path is a matter for your discretion. I suggest there’s little reason not to walk the quiet lane.

My walk took me briefly through a woods and then along a lane that skirted the contours with good views across the valley. At this point I decided to check my GPS ETA for my bus stop and realised that I was a little over time for the bus I wished to catch. Regrettably I decided I needed to shave a little off my walk so took the decision not to walk into Shaugh Prior itself even though I was very close and could see it from across the shallow valley. My photo below isn’t brilliant so I’ve inculded to the right this rather splendid photo of Shaugh Prior from the Francis Frith collection taken c.1965.

Shaugh Prior on the opposite hillside

The Village c1965, Shaugh Prior © Francis Frith

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shaugh Bridge by John Noble Barlow © Plymouth City Council: Museum and Art Gallery

 

From the point of this brief view of Shaugh Prior I followed the lane descending steeply to Shaugh Bridge which crosses the River Plym at it’s confluence with the River Meavy. This has obviously been a favourite recreation spot for some time, as evidenced by this painting.

Confluence of River Meavy and River Plym

 

 

I stopped briefly at Shaugh Bridge to grab a few photos which show a considerably more wintry scene than that depicted in the painting above.

Plym Valley Cycle Trail - Shaugh Halt

 

 

The lane then rose gradually to eventually join the dismantled railway of the Plym Valley Cycle Path at a point where there was a small station platform that ran under a road bridge. I assume this was once the train stop that served Shaugh Prior (since checked out, and yes, this was known as Shaugh Halt).

Plym Valley Cycle Trail - view from the trail

 

To complete my walk all I now needed to do was follow the route of the Plym Valley Cycle Path all the way back to Marsh Mills roundabout. It was interesting to discover how varied this stretch of the walk was from the stretch along the banks of the River Plym, despite the fact that they’re so very close to each other. From here on the trail the path was higher which afforded me sweeping views across the Devon hills draped in silvery bare winter trees.

I had a bit of a calamity with my intended bus out of Plymouth in that it sailed on by as I stood at my bus stop (Crabtree Military Road NE). Two buses came down the road, one overtaking another, and the bus I wanted, obscured by the bus travelling in the inner lane, was, so I belatedly discovered, the bus I wanted. How infuriating! Luckily there was another bus in an hour, last of the day, so yet more waiting in freezing temperatures. An example of the occasional downside to using public transport.

Despite being a little grumpy at having missed my bus, it had been a superb day’s walking, and I was feeling good, if a little cold and hungry.

Note: a number of walks described by Michael Bennie are available as downloads from: Walking Downloads: Pocket Pub Walks Devon from the Countryside Books web site. These downloadable walks appear to have been extracted from the book Pocket Pub Walks Devon published by Countryside Books, not the book I used for this walk. I have not tried any of these downloadable walk guides but include mention here as they may be worth investigating further.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 14.7 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 40min
Stopped Time: 57min
Total Ascent: 639 metres
Maximum Elevation: 139 metres

Buses: X38

05 March 2013 – Trip: Looe, with Mum (165 Miles)

Synopsis: As it would be Mother’s Day this coming Sunday, this was my little treat for Mum. A drive over Dartmoor and onto Looe for pub lunch. Then a drive around Whitsand Bay and the coast of south Devon.

Photo Set – Flickr

GPS Route Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

The sun was shining, the day was warm, and the weather forecast for the rest of the week was lousy, so this seemed the ideal day to get out and about. Options were rather limited this early in the year, with most National Trust properties closed. I suggested to Mum we take a drive, and that’s what we did. A combination of moor and coast seemed a good plan, so to start the day we drove over Dartmoor to Tavistock, and then on to Looe for a pub lunch. The driving route for today is shown on the map below.

View Larger Map

Scenic drive: Exeter (A) to Looe (B) to Freathy (C) to Kingsbridge (D) to Exeter (E)

Looe was busier than I thought it would be, with quite a bustle in the streets and cafés. We parked just over the bridge that separates East Looe from West Looe, although I believe today the place is simply known as Looe. A brief walk along the river and over the bridge found us searching out a pub for lunch.

Looe, Cornwall

After lunch we wandered about the confined byways of Looe, rather amazed at the traffic squeezing its way though the extremely narrow streets. The medieval plan of this town remains largely intact hence the winding and narrow streets to be found wherever we ventured.

The Old Guildhall (Grade II* Listed), now a museum, we passed by, but was probably worth a visit, only time for us was sadly too pressing.

 

 

Looe, Cornwall

 

 

 

It was only a matter of a few minutes before we had reached the small beach with its soft yellow sands. The sun we’d experienced on our drive over Dartmoor was by now losing its prevalence over the hazy clouds drifting our way.

The Pier 1906, Looe © Francis Frith

 

The Francis Frith collection of old photos of Looe is very extensive and worth a browse. The photo I’ve selected from the collection to present here in my blog I’ve chosen simply because it is easily possible to see the exact roof line in this photo of mine. It seems to me the garb may have changed considerably, but in all other respects Looe appears — very commendably — much as it always has.

 

By now our 2 hour parking ticket was close to expiring so we made our way back towards the car park. We drove from Looe to Seaton and picked up the road that runs high along the cliffs of Whitsand Bay. This is a very picturesque, almost corniche like stretch of road with views sweeping across the bay as far as Rame Head. We parked briefly in a lay-by near Donkey Lane to enjoy the views but we weren’t inclined to take the air as there was by now a brisk wind blowing.

View Larger Map © Google Maps
Lay-by on the Military Road with views across Whitsand Bay

We crossed the River Tamar using the Torpoint Ferry which was quick, efficient and relatively cheap. After having crossed Plymouth we picked up the road for Kingsbridge where we stopped in Tesco to purchase some drinks fearing that the cafés would likely be closing as it was now approaching 16:30. I pulled into the car park that looks out on Kingsbrige Estuary for us to consume our drinks whilst taking in the views.

From Kingsbridge we headed out on the south Devon coast road. My original intention had been to drive to Dartmouth but time was against us, so I detoured off the coast at Strete to pick up the road for Totnes and from there we took a more direct route back to Exeter.

We picked up sandwiches and a trifle (Mum’s favourite) in Tesco on reaching Exeter and settled down to these whilst watching the film Then She Found Me on BBC iPlayer which was very enjoyable and relaxing. I think the day worked out really well for both Mum and I.

Drive Statistics:

Total Distance: 165 miles

Buses: (none)
Ferry: Torpoint (single car crossing: £1.50)