26 March 2011 – Trip: Overbecks, Salcombe

Synopsis: A trip out with Mum. A drive along the coast road taking the ferry from Kingswear to Dartmouth. Then on to Torcross for a brief walk and lunch. We then visited Overbecks (NT) at Salcombe.

Photo Set – Flickr

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

About this time last year Mum and I had a nice trip out to Overbeck’s (NT), Salcombe, and I thought that it would be nice to do a repeat visit.

I took the coast road from Teignmouth to Kingswear, stopping briefly at Torquay harbour for a choc-chip cookie and lemonade; naughty, but nice. Our next stop was Blackpool Sands, which was looking beautiful in the hazy sun filtering through the sea mist. I had thought about eating there, but there wasn’t a much of a food selection at the cafe, mostly burgers, so we drove on. The next convenient stop was Torcross, where we chose the smart Seabreeze cafe for lunch. The food was simple, but very nicely prepared, and this is a place I would recommend. To be honest, there’s not a lot of competition in Torcross.

We then followed the narrow and winding road through pretty Devon villages till we arrived at Salcombe, and climbed the steep hill to Overbeck’s. This time I had the sense to drive to the top of the hill where there was space to park in the car park adjacent the entrance gate; last year I made Mum walk the hill, which no doubt was better for her, but perhaps something to avoid from a personal comfort perspective.

Overbeck's (NT), Salcombe - view across the front of the house

Overbeck’s is a relatively small house, but very charming, and beautifully situated on a bluff overlooking the Kingsbridge Estuary, with views back to Salcombe. We first looked around the house and all its eccentricities. I love Otto Overbeck’s patented Rejuvenator. This is nothing more than a device to send an electric current through people. Completely bonkers of course, but hey, if it sells, don’t knock it. If eBay had been around at the time, Otto would no doubt have made a mint.

Overbeck's (NT), Salcombe - magnolia, lit up in the sun

 

 

Overbeck’s is famed for a magnolia that it has in its garden, a Magnolia Campbelii, which I understand is a unique specimen, noted for its strong colour. The National Trust is propagating from it to ensure its continuation. Oddly the flowers this year were all but over and yet on our visit of last year, slightly later than this year’s visit, we saw it in bloom. And strange that the other magnolias around about were all in full bloom.

Overbeck's (NT), Salcombe - display of old photos of magnolia campbellii

 

Last year I overheard two conversations that struck me as very amusing, but unfortunately this year passed without a single comical utterance. I did however have the sense to arrive earlier than last year, thus affording us the time for tea and cake in the cafe, which is a grand wood-panelled stylish room, befitting such a house. Photos of our previous trip can be found in set 125 Overbecks, Salcombe and a brief blog entry can be found at 5th April 2010, Overbecks, Salcombe. Please note that I did make one mistake in my blog of last year in that I had thought that Otto Overbeck stood in front of his Magnolia Campbelii in an old photo of 1920, but this obviously could not be him, as he didn’t acquire the house till 1928. So who the old gentleman is in this photo (see photo set on Flickr) I’ve no idea, probably a gardener.

24 March 2011 – Walk: Stoke Flemming to Torcross (7.0 Miles)

Synopsis: A spontaneous no-planning walk this, requiring a lot of bus hops, but it worked out fine. Lunch on the beach at Blackpool Sands in a hazy sun, then a trek along Slapton Sands to Torcross.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Before setting out from Stoke Fleming I hesitated a while to visit the church of St Peter’s. This church is not considered that worthy due to what is thought to have been a heavy-handed restoration of 1871. Those Victorians were just too zealous! I didn’t however dislike the church, finding it quite charming in it’s way, and I delighted in the few really old things that remain such as an ancient effigy of the foundress and a splendid brass from about the same time.

Stoke Fleming - parish church of St Peter's - lectern

The altar is I think quite exquisitely carved, with a strong nautical flavour, full of turbulent waters. The thing that really intrigued me however was the lectern, which appears to me to be an albatross. I know Stoke Fleming was once in the in Coleridge Hundred, but can it really be an albatross?

 

Blackpool Sands – time for lunch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My lunch venue was to be Blackpool sands. I found a nice spot out of the sharp breeze, under a sign which read ‘Danger! Cliff falls – keep away’. Well, what was I to do?

A notch for you, a notch for me

 

For some reason I didn’t take any photos in Strete, not that I have anything against the place, but I just felt I’d taken my photos on a previous visit of 12th June 2010, photos of which can be found in set 137 Strete to Dartmouth on Flickr including some links to a number of old photos from the Francis Frith collection. The only photo I took there today was taken on entering the village, where I discovered a lovely bench, which looks to be nothing more than a tree trunk in which two notches have been carved, but what more would any couple require?

Slapton Ley

 

 

 

The light was quite bright but a little hazy, which made Slapton Ley look marvellous. There were some gorgeous winter hues across the waters and the swaying reed beds of the ley. I do believe I’m becoming quite fond of March.

Torcross - knitted goodies

 

 

 

 

 

On entering Torcross a cafe by the name of Seabreeze once again caught my eye. It’s very tastefully decorated and has a certain class I feel. I noticed these lovely knitted decorations in the window. Now, whose idea was it to have knitted fairy cakes? They look good enough to eat.

 

A most enjoyable leisurely walk on a glorious day, and all done with no more planning than throwing some maps and bus timetables into my map case and setting out on my way.

One important tip as regards bus-hopping when coming out of this walk: my bus out of Torcross was scheduled to arrive five minutes after the bus for Totnes had departed, which could have been particularly annoying. But, as it happens, the X93 route into Dartmouth follows the 111 bus route out, so it’s possible to hop off the X93 at the top of the hill and thereby shortcut the 111 saving valuable minutes. Here is a map link to the bus stop I used.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 7.0 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 47min
Stopped Time: 1hr 05min
Total Ascent: 261 metres
Maximum Elevation: 121 metres

Buses: D, X46, 120, X93, 111 & X64 (X93 - £6.55 for return Dartmouth to Torcross)

£1.10 for single ferry crossing from Kingswear to Dartmouth

19 March 2011 – Walk: Bovey Tracey and Torbay (8.3 Miles)

Synopsis: A woodland walk around the Parke estate at Bovey Tracey, following the course of the River Bovey. Followed by a bus-hop to Torbay for lunch, and a stroll along the sea front to Paignton.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

Tracklog overlay (1 - Bovey Tracey) - OSM – ViewRanger

Tracklog overlay (2 – Torbay) - OSM – ViewRanger

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I was looking for some light walking today, and settled upon the idea of a walk around Parke (NT), at Bovey Tracey. It doesn’t take very long to get to Bovey Tracey by bus and so, after leaving Exeter around 8:30, I found I was walking in Bovey by 9:15. As I walked through the streets in the direction of Parke I noticed how alive the town was with a bustle of people going about their morning errands. My experience of Bovey suggests it’s a vibrant and friendly place, full of charm. This morning I had been greeted by various people enquiring where I was going. I believe part of the reason for the vitality of Bovey Tracey might well be the fact that its very well placed to service the various needs of those on (or headed for) Dartmoor.

On the subject of Dartmoor: as I approached Parke the large and looming hills of Dartmoor were ever present on the horizon ahead of me. In many ways they were tempting, and I would have loved to have been up there, but trouble is getting there on public transport isn’t easy. Anyway, today looked like being such a glorious day, I was more than happy to content myself with a walk around Parke, in the foothills of Dartmoor.

Bovey Tracey - Parke (NT) - information board in car park

The entrance to the Parke estate is only about a 10 minute walk from the centre of Bovey Tracey. I was soon climbing the estate drive steadily to the car park where I hoped to find a map of the estate showing the paths; I was not disappointed. I selected my route and was on my way for a clockwise walk around the grounds of Parke.

 

 

 

Bovey Tracey - Parke (NT) - bridge over River Bovey

 

The path I followed took me across a couple of meadows and then into woods. The path then dropped in the direction of the river, taking me over duckboards to a footbridge that I used to cross the River Bovey. Once across, I walked a little further up river to take a quick look at the disused railway line sometimes used by cyclists. I then regained the river and started on my course down river towards Bovey Tracey. This was some of the most scenic walking in the grounds of Parke, as the river looked lovely with the sun sparkling off its surface.

 
A major personal breakthrough followed on retracing my way into Bovey Tracey. I’d spotted some homemade Battenberg cake in a bakery shop window as I set off on my walk, something I’d been on the lookout for for ages. Why don’t more bakeries make Battenberg cake? Anyway, I stuffed a rather large Battenberg cake in my rucksack which would provide something to look forward to later in the day. Oh dear! What an indulgence.

On arriving by bus back in Torquay I found myself rather hungry as it had become a little late for lunch. I sought out a bench on the seafront, a vacant one I unexpectedly found. On opening my lunchbox I noticed a busker was setting up his business close by; hence the reason for the empty bench I suppose. Actually I’m being rather harsh; he was really quite good, reeling off Johny Cash, Bob Dylan and Elvis Presley songs and encouraging children to join him on maracas, for which he’d give them a badge and tell them they were now certified buskers. It made the onlookers laugh. I heard a quote on the radio within the last few days, one from Bernard Shaw I’m told, and it’s this: “Hell is full of amateur musicians.” Made me smile, although I’m sure things aren’t really as bad as that. I’ll let you know what I find!

Torbay - Torquay Rock Walk - magnolia tree in flower

After lunch I walked up the Rock Walk, which has been recently renovated, and is looking fresh and clean, if a little naked. I spotted this lovely magnolia on the walk. At least it must be said that clearing away the other plants away has brought this one into the limelight. The light at this time of year is so much better than high summer, as it illuminates from such an acute angle.

 

 

Torbay - Torquay Abbey Gardens

 

 

 

 

These flowers, in the Abbey Park gardens of Torquay seafront, I have finally found a name for. They are Bergenia, commonly known as Elephant’s Ear, apparently; I had to do a bit of investigation to discover that fact. They’ve been in flower for several weeks now, and are in fact going slightly over, and they’re to be seen everywhere. I feel any garden colour this early in the season is very welcome.

Torbay - Hollicombe Beach - mimosa tree

 

 

 

 

 

At Hollicombe beach I noticed there were some beautiful mimosa trees alight with colour in their fresh new bloom. The yellow bloom literally seemed to be ablaze. I imagine the bloom was fresh, the air clear, and the sun bright, which were perfect conditions in which to see these lovely trees. Beautiful!

 

A delightful walk, and how could it have been otherwise, on such a glorious day as this was. Nothing strenuous, but I felt nicely exercised afterwards, and very, very relaxed.

Walk Statistics:

Bovey Tracey:
Total Distance: 5.0 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 8min
Stopped Time: 32min
Total Ascent: 156 metres
Maximum Elevation: 110 metres

Torbay:
Total Distance: 3.3 miles
Moving Time: 1hrs 25min
Stopped Time: 52min
Total Ascent: 98 metres
Maximum Elevation: 35 metres

Buses: D, 39, 12 & X46

12 March 2011 – Walk: Shute to Seaton (8.7 Miles)

Synopsis: All aboard! The Seaton tramway that runs from Colyton is followed for part of this walk. Also passed by Shute Barton (NT), but today it was not open to the public. And something grizzly too!

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I thought this might be a walk I’d fail to undertake when the bus I was travelling outwards on broke down in Rockbeare. Thankfully Stagecoach sent out a replacement bus from Exeter, and it only delayed me for 30 minutes. As this planned walk was of a relatively short distance, the delay did not impact significantly on my intentions.

The morning started bright enough, but as the day wore on some low level cloud obscured the sun somewhat and created a hazy light that reduced visibility. A pity really, as the countryside was so beautiful and there was the potential for some really excellent views. Still, it remained dry (mostly), and this wasn’t going to spoil my day.

I was greeted by a very disgruntled man a minute or two into my walk. He asked if I had just got off the bus, to which I indicated I had. He said he’d hoped to catch it, but after waiting for a long time had given up on it. I explained that the bus was running thirty minutes late as a replacement had to be called out. He grumbled something about the buses always breaking down (which isn’t my experience). He was not a happy man! The trouble with buses is that when things do go wrong, it’s very difficult to find information about what is happening. That’s an experience I’ve had on a few occasions.

On the approach to Shute Barton

My path climbed gradually into a woods through which I intended to circle on my way to Shute. On the brow of the hill I was greeted with the sight of a gypsy camp. I’d seen a woman drive by me on the rough woodland track I walked and I thought then that that was odd, so the sight of a gypsy (or should that be ‘travellers’ these days?) camp wasn’t a complete surprise. Whether the authorities know they’re here I don’t know. I have to say they’ve chosen a delightful setting. I said, as one traveller to another, a “good morning” in my friendliest tones to a man holding back a very large dog on which I hoped he had a firm grip! Discretion led me to think best not tarry.

Shute parish church of St Michael

 

It was lovely walking through the forest. The sound of bird song was all around. This was easy going and I was soon descending a track towards Shute Barton when the local parish church came into view. I took a little time out to walk up to the church and give it a quick inspection.

 

Shute parish church of St Michael - statue to William Pole

 

 

 

 

There is a significant statue to a William Pole, who was Master of the Household under Queen Anne. I presume Shute Barton was his country pile. It’s slightly unusual to have a statue in a church like this, but that’s man’s vanity for you. Shute Barton is National Trust, but there in only very limited opening to the public due to it having been converted to a ‘premium’ holiday accommodation. “The gateway, Elizabethan and built to impress, has two wings with turrets meeting over a central arch and pavilion displaying the Pole arms.” – Shell Guide

 

Seaton Tramway - Colyton

 

 

 

From here my path took me across country through fields and along tracks before eventually descending  on the edge of a woods in the direction of Colyton. This is the terminus of the Seaton Tramway, a brief history of which is available at British Heritage Railways.

 

A tram was boarding in the station so I hung around for a while to watch it pull out of the station. Being electric it of course does this without very much fuss at all. It does however look wonderfully quaint, and along with a very picturesque Colyton station, this was a charming window on a bygone time and world, albeit a little fake. I say that, as apparently these trams have been displaced from their original home, which was Eastbourne, and are now running on what was once a conventional rail line. Rather lovely all the same. There are photos of the line as a conventional railway in the Rail Station UK – Colyton group on Flickr. And there’s also the Tram UK – Seaton Tramway group on Flickr.

Colyton - "Most photographed lamppost in Devon

 

I came across this rather ornate lamppost in Colyton, so I had to take a photo of it, only to discover later that it is said to be: “The most photographed lamppost in Devon”.

 

River Axe

 

 

 

 

 

 

By this time I was getting hungry and looking for a suitable place to eat my lunch. As I walked by the River Axe I was on the lookout for some shelter from a cold easterly breeze but it wasn’t until I had nearly reached Colyford that I found an embankment I could drop onto that was well protected and comfortable.

 

Seaton Tramway - Colyford

There is a stop for the trams at Colyford. I took the opportunity of once again wondering over to watch a waiting tram board its passengers and set out on its way to Seaton.

I then picked up a lane and had to follow this for sometime in the direction of Seaton, which, although not too busy I did encounter some traffic. I noticed a poster advertising a discussion about a proposed footway/cycleway which I presume is intended to link Colyford with Seaton (I later discovered this will become part of The Stop Line Way, following “the line of the old World War II Taunton Stop Line”, proposed National Cycle Route 33 from Sustrans). This would be a worthwhile exercise, so I hope the venture goes well.

Seaton - in sea mist

I wasn’t long in Seaton before a little rain began to fall. There were junior runners all about who were in the process of competing in a Grizzly Run, which I understand is a regular Seaton event. This is the ‘grizzly’ I referred to in my blog synopsis. The final length of the run is along the cobbles of the beach, which appeared to be well and truly grizzly, particularly in the drizzle now falling. I believe the following day there was to be the main Grizzly Run event, which I think is an adult occasion. I don’t feel this is for me.

 

 

An enjoyable walk through quiet countryside with a few diversions to add interest. I saw my first primrose of the season on this walk, and many daffodils too; there’s a real feeling that spring is on its way and everyone is wanting to get out and enjoy it.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 8.7 miles
Moving Time: 3hrs 16min
Stopped Time: 32min
Total Ascent: 238 metres
Maximum Elevation: 163 metres

Buses: 380 & 52A

03 March 2011 – Walk: Axminster to Lyme Regis (7.3 Miles)

Synopsis: A relatively short walk, but one with lots of variety: countryside, forests, seaside and gardens. The church of Uplyme provided an interesting diversion. Fishermen seen unloading their catch at Lyme Regis.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

I caught the X53 bus from Sandygate Roundabout at about 9am. This is a bus operated by First as there are no Stagecoach buses that run between Exeter and Lyme Regis. My plan was to first bus to Lyme Regis and from there then hop on another bus for the short twelve minute journey to Axminster. This worked really well, with me being out walking by 11am.

Axminster - street market

The first thing I came across on stepping off the bus was a street market taking place in Trinity Square, Axminster. This was not a big affair, but it was quite lively all the same. The wafting smell of pasties emanating from a bakery stall were quite tempting, but I resisted the urge to buy.

 

 

Roe deer watch me go by

 

 

My path took me out the back of Axminster behind housing, it not being long before I found myself in rolling pastures of typical Devon countryside. Curious lambs came to see who it was that was crossing their fields. Everything looked lush and beautiful in the strong sun. I had seen some deer travelling by bus to Lyme Regis, and saw these two deer whilst out walking (photographed using digital zoom on my little compact camera).

Path through the forest

 

It wasn’t long before I was starting to climb up to heath land on the edge of a forest. Up here I could feel the full effects of the strong cold wind that was blowing, and was grateful for the shelter afforded by the trees once my way took me into the forest. I do like forest walking, as the air has that fresh, clean pine smell to it. It was in the forest that I chose to stop to eat my lunch.

Uplyme Parish Church of St Peter and St Paul - Jacobean 'polygonal' pulpit

 

 

I walked further into the forest, it not being long before my path began to drop towards the valley in which the River Lim runs. I followed the river for a while, and then, upon entering Uplyme, detoured up to the parish church, and was glad I did. The church has a Saxon font, which I would have missed if I hadn’t read an information placard hanging from a pew end. Perhaps a little unprepossessing, but an object so ancient is something few churches in Devon, or England for that matter, can lay claim to. The church also has Jacobean pulpit the like of which I’d not seen before. I find it’s always worth looking into churches, as there is often things of interest to be found in them.

Uplyme Parish Church of St Peter and St Paul

 

 

 

I also noted a window in Uplyme parish church. It has the symbol of the five-petal rose in it, and also another (photo right) that shows the Star of David. Why did that strike me? Well, I’ve just finished reading The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown, and if you know that book, you’ll know to what I refer; a couple of sample book extracts below:

p.271:- [Sophie Nevue]: She paused, closing the box lid and eyeing the five-petal Rose inlaid on it. Something was bothering her. “Did you say earlier that the Rose is a symbol for the Grail?”
[Robert Langdon]: “Exactly. In Priory symbolism, the Rose and the Grail are synonymous.” [see: Dynasty of the Holy Grail: Mormonism's Sacred Bloodline]

p.331:- [Sir Leigh Teabing]: “Mary Magdalene is here,” Teabing said, pointing near the top of the genealogy.
[Sophie Nevue): Sophie was suprised. “She was of the House of Benjamin?”
[Sir Leigh Teabing]: “Indeed,” Teabing said. “Mary Magdalene was of royal descent.”
p.332:- [Sir Leigh Teabing]: “As you know, the Book of Matthew tells us that Jesus was of the House of David. [see: Saint Anne] A descendant of King Solomon – King of the Jews. By marrying into the powerful House of Benjamin, Jesus fused two royal bloodlines, creating a potent political union with the potential of making a legitimate claim to the throne and restoring the line of kings as it was under Solomon.”

Lyme Regis - Old Town Mill

From the parish church of Uplyme I descended into the village to once again rejoin the course of the River Lim. On entering Lyme Regis I find there is an old mill that I read on a notice board had been restored. It has been converted into a hydroelectric power station. The Town Mill is said to have a working flour mill. The mill was closed today, but is something I should like to investigate on another visit to Lyme Regis.

 

Lyme Regis - the harbour

 

 

I walked towards the Cobb, something that one really has to do on any visit to Lyme. The fishermen were landing their catches in the harbour, which was sending the seagulls into a wild frenzy. The otherwise quiet calm of the harbour waters belied the fact that on the seaward side there was quite a swell. I don’t think fishing would ever have been something for me, despite the attraction of working with primitive nature in the raw like this.

 

All in all, a walk of surprising variety considering it was of a relatively short distance. This walk is however at the furthest reach of day walking by bus from Exeter. There are limits to public transport.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 7.3 miles
Moving Time: 2hrs 52min
Stopped Time: 33min
Total Ascent: 365 metres
Maximum Elevation: 210 metres

Buses: X53 & 31 (First-Day ticket costing £6.50)