11 July 2009 – Walk: Bickleigh to Bradninch (13 Miles)

Synopsis: A walk in mid Devon country, partly inspired by my walk of last week. Fields of green and soil of red. A Morris church window to see at Butterleigh, which was something of a nice surprise.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

The weather forecast for the day of this walk was not good, but I felt the urge to get some fresh air and exercise. As the weather was forecast to deteriorate as the day wore on, I decided upon making an early start, up at 5:30am and on the bus by 7:30am, my destination Bickleigh.

There was the occasional light rain falling making the vegetation very wet, which meant I had to put on gaiters to keep myself reasonably dry. As the green lanes that I found I often found myself in were much overgrown, I did get several soakings, but as the day was warm I really didn’t mind.

Morris window in Butterleigh Church

I did a minor detour to visit the village of Butterleigh and its church. There was a window in the church that caught my eye, and I was looking at when a lady entered the church. At first she hadn’t noticed I was there, but eventually she shouted across a friendly hello to me. They seem to operate a small visitors centre at the church, and I think she was part of this group. The place was most welcoming. She described the window as the ‘Morris window’. It certainly has the style of that period which makes it stand out amongst all the other windows in the church. I rather liked it.

Poor box of 1629 in Butterleigh Church

 

 

 

 

  

In the church there is also a poor box carved out of a single piece of oak, with a date inscribed on it of 1629. I’d never before seen anything quite like this.

 

 

 

A little further on from Butterleigh I enter a field and as I check out my route across it I spot what I think to be a bull with heifers. I take a little closer look and yes, it’s definitely a bull. I decide we should take stock of each other before either of us made a move. I stood there looking at it, and he at me. The bull was standing right on the route I should walk. After a few minutes I decide he hasn’t much interest in me, so continue to walk across this field,although I give him a wide berth. When you see the large haunches of a bull it is quite intimidating. I don’t usually find bulls out in the fields with heifers until later in the year, but today I came across two.

Tumulus in the woods

On route there was a tumulus in a woods which I had decided upon taking a little detour so as to have a closer look. It is quite a visible mount, very atmospheric tucked away as it is in the forest. As I march on I find that I’m only about 2 miles from Cullompton,so I decide to make that my lunch venue. There was a lovely view of Cullompton in the valley as I walked the track through the forest. I could see a rain belt moving along the length of the valley.

 

Austin A40 complete with art work

 

On arriving in Cullompton I looked for a park in which to eat my lunch, but had to settle for a bench by the side of the road. After lunch I followed a lane gently rising out of Cullompton in the direction of Bradninch. As I approached Bradninch the rain set in quite hard so I decided to make my way home as quickly as possible. Glimpsed this sporty looking car just across the road from the bus stop, complete with art work on the roof. I bet this puts your car to shame.

 

The day proved enjoyable despite the rather damp conditions. I think the countryside around this area some of the finest that the county has to offer, and in Devon that’s quite some recommendation. This is the Devon the tourists never see, and for them so much the pity. And in many ways the light is so much better for taking photos than on a bright sunny day, as the colours are so much richer.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 13.50miles
Moving Time: 5hrs 6min
Stopped Time: 52min
Total Ascent: 483 metres
Maximum Elevation: 188 metres

Buses: H1, 55, 1

04 July 2009 – Walk: Uffculme to Cullompton (13.1 Miles)

Synopsis: Head east, not so young man, was the cry. Well, I have often been drawn to the west and south, and have neglected the countryside to the east of Exeter. It was time I addressed the matter.

Photo Set – Flickr -:- (Map)

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive

 

Tracklog and Photos - Google My Map

Tracklog overlay - OSM – ViewRanger -:- OS – WheresThePath

 

(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

A walk I did earlier in the year along the Grand Western Canal took me on bus route through the rustic villages of Bradninch, Willand, Cullompton and Uffculme. It made me realise that this area of Devon, although so close to where I live, was very unfamiliar to me. I had made a mental note at the time to return, and today was the opportunity to do just that.

The Ostler pub, Uffculme

My plan was to catch the bus to Uffculme and walk back to Cullompton from there. Unfortunately quite a number of the buses terminate at Cullompton, the earliest bus to go right through to Uffculme on a Saturday was the 8:40 from Exeter. The best place for me to catch this was from the bus stop near the Whipton shops, a short walk along Sweetbrier Lane of 1.2 miles from home. Despite the bus being a little late, I reached Uffculme in good time as the journey is relatively short and quick., starting my walk by about 9:50.

 

The River Culme

I take a little time to look around Uffculme. This village has a charming little triangular centre surrounded by pubs and shops. It felt like a pretty sleepy place with very few people about. The church was unfortunately closed, so I only got to see it from the outside. From here I dropped down to the River Culme which was the start off on my cross-country walk. The usual dog walkers that you often meet close to a village were out in droves, although it wasn’t long before I began to cross fields and I was left to my own company.

 

Distant view of Uffculme

The sun was out and the day warm, although there were some dark brooding skies about. There was every chance I’d catch a shower or two today, but I had my umbrella with me and was prepared for all eventualities. Climbing a hill across the River Culme from Uffculme afforded me fine views across the valley back to the village I’d just left.

 

 

 

I settled on the plan of stopping in Kentisbeare for my lunch. I enter the village at 11:45, passing a little water fountain with a plaque. Apparently the water fountain was put there to commemorate the funeral of George V. A gentleman saw me looking at the fountain and stopped to tell me that he had attended the funeral of the former king of England, as he was living in Windsor at the time. The fountain now serves as a drinking trough for passing thirsty dogs. I was tempted, but decided to stick with my canteen.

Kentisbeare Church

On entering Kentisbeare Church I find it to be a hive of activity. Some women were putting in place a newly woven alter cloth, woven in the Heathcote Mills of Tiverton, appropriately enough. One of the ladies explained to me that there were to be celebrations of the 750th anniversary of the church next week, and that they were preparing the church for this event.

 

The west gallery of Kentisbeare Church

 

 

The church has a superb west gallery, something that you don’t see in many of Devon’s churches. It's said that minstrels would at one time have played in these. That's an idea I've always liked. A plaque on the wall commemorates the death of a Scott, a nephew of Sir Walter, who had died of Scarlet Fever. I guess the Scott family had quite a share of tragedies.

 

Skies darken over Kentisbeare Church

I eat my lunch on a bench looking out over the church. It’s a lovely peaceful spot and I really appreciate the deeply rural feel of central Devon. I did however notice the skies darkening and saw what seemed like rain on a distant hill, so I decide to be on my way as soon as possible.

 

Corn begins to turn

 

 

I notice that the corn is just beginning to turn from green to yellow. It won’t be long before the countryside is transformed in the the colours of high summer. I was glad of the gentle breeze that blew across the fields, as the day was hot and the humidity high. I notice that the soil in this area is a very  light sandy soil, quite a contrast to the deep red heavy clay that is found to the north west of Exeter.

Cullompton Church Golgotha carving

I was presented with a fine view out over Cullompton in the final stages of my walk. I crossed the motorway and the railway and entered Cullompton. I was keen to see the church of St Andrews, as I’d heard that it was unusually grand for a town of this size. I caught sight of it down Church Lane, coming into view between a line of cottages. It appeared quite imposing from the outside, and from the interior even more so. There was this very peculiar ‘Golgotha’ wood carving that is Medieval in origin, that once capped an earlier rood screen. Apparently the only one of its kind in existence. Here I also come across my second west gallery of the day. I hadn’t expected to see two of these in one walk.

But the real crowning glory of this church is the ribbed vaulting of the roof, a glorious example of such grandeur that you’d normally only see in a cathedral. Obviously a place with quite some pretensions.

The bus was waiting at the bus stop. It’s a very regular service that runs between Exeter and Cullompton. Within 5 minutes of my boarding the bus, I’m on my way back home.

It was nice to have sampled a day in what might be considered typical rural Devon, rather away from the usual tourist honey spots.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 13.1 miles
Moving Time: 4hrs 30min
Stopped Time: 46min
Total Ascent: 315 metres
Maximum Elevation: 156 metres

Buses: 1