Saturday, 27 September 2008

27 September 2008 - Walk: Sheepwash and Buckland Filliegh (7.8 miles)

Synopsis: A name like Sheepwash is probably quite descriptive of a village’s past history. An elegant manor house, an old church, rustic farms, and hay stacks. A fine taster of the best of central Devon.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
001 Sheepwash016 Near Sheepwash022 Near Sheepwash034 Buckland Filleigh045 St Mary's Church, Buckland Filleigh054 Buckland Filleigh
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Walk! Devon
Walk! Devon

This walk is route 36 from the book Walk! Devon. This is a favourite book of mine, as the walks are very well written up, easy to follow, and each is provided with Ordnance Survey 1/25,000 maps. All the walks are ‘GPS Enabled’, by which is meant that each has a table of waypoint grid references that can be loaded to a GPS unit to facilitate easy navigation. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.

There weren't a lot of bus options for this walk. I believe there are only two buses in and out of Sheepwash, both running on a Thursday. Not a lot of use to me. So this walk had to be done by my environmentally unfriendly car. 

013 Sheepwash
Cottages on the village square

 

 

 

Sheepwash, as my guidebook mentions, has a rather unusual aspect in that it has a village square. Although not unknown of in Devon, there aren't that many of them. It gives the village, with the exception of it's very Devon name, a rather continental quality. I half expected to see men playing boule and sipping wine.

026 Buckland Mill
The ideal retreat

 

The early morning mist had lingered long, but was now almost clear. The walk is down lanes, across open fields, along tracks and through woodland. Something for everyone! Buckland Mill is just a few cottages down a dirt track, highly suitable for the person who wants to get away from it all.

033 Buckland Filleigh
Buckland Filleigh manor house, built 1810 (grade II* listed)

 

 

 

The grand manor house at Buckland Filliegh is quite unusual for Devon, in that there aren't that many country mansions on this imposing scale. It was built in 1810 after the previous very early house was burnt down. It has fifteen bedrooms and the whole house is available for holiday lets! Note Buckland Filleigh is not to be confused with Filleigh 20km to the north-east.


Buckland Manor is a Grade II* listed building. In its listing the property’s description states, “This is one of the earliest surviving Greek Doric revival houses and remains very unaltered whilst incorporating probably the core of an earlier house.” The house was built for the Fortescue family, historically one of the most significant families in the county of Devon.

038 St Mary's Church, Buckland Filleigh
Grade II* listed church of St Mary's, Filleigh

 

 

 

 

I broke my walk to briefly look around the church of St Mary’s, Filleigh. I subsequently discovered that the church of St Mary’s is a grade II* listed building, so well worth a pause. This building has the advantage over the manor house, in that it is open to the public.

 

063 Near Buckland Filleigh
Old farm buildings of quite some vintage

 


From here I passed through some lovely old run down farms. For me it brings to mind Hardy's Wessex. This looks like bare-bones living. I saw a fox, strangely not paying me much attention for quite some time. I think it had it's mind on supper of the feathered kind, which I fear I may have spoiled for it. Even though the fox was distracted, and therefore I was able to get quite close to it, it still darted when it eventually saw me and my attempted photo contained no fox whatsoever!

 

So, it was a lovely day's walk, the Devon countryside being a pleasant change from the coastal path of recent walks.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 7.8m
Total Ascent: 269 metres
Total Walk Time: (moving): 3 hrs 4 mins (elapsed): 4 hrs 20 mins
Maximum Elevation: 162 metres
Buses: (none, as very inaccessible by bus - travelled by car)

Saturday, 20 September 2008

20 September 2008 - Walk: Dartmouth, Little Dartmouth & Dartmouth Castle (7.7 miles)

Synopsis: A rather short but highly concentrated walk with much to delight the entire length of the route. A day of late summer warmth and sunshine made this a most splendid walk.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
015 Dartmouth022 Dartmouth030 Dartmouth044 Dartmouth066 Dartmouth136 Coastal Path
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Walk! Devon
Walk! Devon

This walk is route 27 from the book Walk! Devon. This is a favourite book of mine, as the walks are very well written up, easy to follow, and each is provided with Ordnance Survey 1/25,000 maps. All the walks are ‘GPS Enabled’, by which is meant that each has a table of waypoint grid references that can be loaded to a GPS unit to facilitate easy navigation. To see other walks from this book that I have completed, use the link under Tags to the right.

This has to be one of my earliest starts ever! I'm up at 4:45 am to catch the 6:30 bus to Totnes - now how is that for dedication? Well, I looked at the options, and by far the best bus connections were to be had if I started early. As I walked to the bus stop across Ludwell Valley Park in Exeter a heavy mist lay all around. I very nearly missed my bus, only seeing it come out of the mist at the very last moment.

 

 

001 Dartmouth
The Riverside Promenade

I'm walking in Dartmouth by around 8:40 am. The town is still and quiet at that time of a Saturday morning. I wandered along the waterfront and through the town for a while before heading off on my walk. It was a beautiful crisp morning and there were few people about which made for very enjoyable sight seeing.

 

 

The Promenade c1955, Dartmouth - Francis Frith
The Promenade c1955, Dartmouth © Francis Frith

 

 

There are quite a number of interesting old photos of Dartmouth in the Francis Frith collection, and I quite like comparing the then-and-now of these as I walk through a place. This photo of The Promenade shows a Dartmouth not greatly changed today. For more old/new photo comparisons, see the description on my Flickr photo set, link above.

054 Dartmouth
Bayards Cove

 

I walked along the cobbled quayside of Bayard’s Cove which is where Dartmouth’s lower ferry operates (the ferry ramp is just visible in this photo). Someone was up before me, as the flowers in the hanging baskets had evidently already been watered.

108 Dartmouth
Dartmouth Castle

 

 

 


I thought Dartmouth Castle and St Petrock's Church quite charming. The light was quite stark and bright this early in the morning making Dartmouth Castle silhouetted  prominently against the deep blue-green coloured water.

115 Dartmouth
Castle Cove

 


The coast path ascends from behind the castle, leading into small coves just out from here. These coves exemplify the most quaint picture postcard Devon coast and are quite lovely. From here the path hugs a steep sided cliff snaking around these coves until leading out towards the headland of Blackstone Point.


Castle Cove 1930, Dartmouth - Francis Frith
Castle Cove 1930, Dartmouth © Francis Frith

 

 

 

 

There seems to have been a little shack built, quite incredibly, in the steep sided Castle Cove during the 1930s, as can be seen in this photo from the Francis Frith collection.

150 Coastal Path
Looking towards Slapton from Warren Point

 

I stopped for lunch at Warren Point, which afforded a wonderful view out to Slapton Sands. There was no shelter from the noonday sun here on the point, so I was soon part baked by the unremitting rays.

158 Coastal Path
View from Gallant's Bower, an old Civil War fortress, c.1649

 

 

 

 

The path from Warren Point climbs to the National Trust car park, from where it heads back in the direction of Dartmouth. I passed Gallant's Bower, the old earth mounds of a fortress erected during the time of the Civil War in 1649.



From Gallant's Bower the path dropped steeply through woods into Dartmouth. I caught the 3:00 pm bus from Dartmouth for the first leg of my journey home to Exeter. A brilliant day’s walking.

Walk Statistics:

Total Distance: 7.7m
Total Walk Time: (moving): 3 hrs 13 mins (elapsed): 5 hrs 50 mins
Total Ascent: 460 metres
Maximum Elevation: 121 metres
Buses: Stagecoach X64 (to Totnes) & 111 (Dartmouth)

Saturday, 13 September 2008

13 September 2008 - Walk: St Marychurch to Shaldon (11.6 miles)

Synopsis: Incredible views are to be earned on this walk, but earned is the operative word, since there are numerous stiff ascents to be negotiated. Tough, but highly rewarding walk.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
005 Babbacombe014 Babbacombe068 View south072 Approaching Shaldon090 Shaldon112 Teignmouth
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

Walk! Devon
Walk! Devon

This walk is route 23 from the book Walk! Devon. This is an excellent, recently acquired, book of mine, as the walks are very well written up, easy to follow, and each is provided with Ordnance Survey 1/25,000 maps. All the walks are ‘GPS Enabled’, by which is meant that each has a table of waypoint grid references that can be loaded to a GPS unit to facilitate easy navigation. This is my first walk using this guide, but as I walk more I will tag them as I have this walk. To see other walks from this book that I complete, use the link under Tags to the right.

So why this walk? The walk is to be from St Marychurch to Shaldon, then on into Teignmouth to catch a bus back home. Well, I was inspired by an engraving that I came across on the Internet. Giant's Rock, down Watcombe way. I didn't however come across this view during this walk; does anyone know precisely where this is? I had also stumbled upon some old photos on the Francis Frith web site. I thought it would be interesting to compare the then and now, and see what remains and what doesn't.

Torquay, The Giant Rock at Watcombe - National Media Museum
Torquay, The Giant Rock at Watcombe © National Media Museum

 

This is a photo from the National Media Museum collection that is also of Giant’s Rock I mentioned above. I’ve only recently discovered this photo and added it to this blog post. I note that this photo, held on Flickr, has been geo-tagged with its location. I think today it’s not possible to gain quite the same view as these old images, but I feel an inclination to return someday soon and have a little exploration of the area.

See additional notes regarding the location of Giant’s Rock at the foot of this post.


This was to be another early start to catch the bus, this time the No. 2 to Teignmouth, from where I connect with No. 32 on to St Marychurch. The dew was on the grass and the mist was just lifting from the hills as I walked down to Topsham Road, Exeter, to catch my first bus of the day.

016 Babbacombe
Oddicombe Beach

I was down in St Marychurch by 9 am, and set off for Oddicombe beach. Just a few dog walkers on the promenade at that time of day. Down on the beach however there was a diving school preparing to go out. I examine my old photos of Oddicombe Beach, and find the same vantage for my photos, which proved to be remarkably similar to the photos of old.

Beach 1889, Babbacombe - Francis Frith
Beach 1889, Babbacombe © Francis Frith

 

 

 


This is the photo from the Francis Frith collection taken in 1889 from roughly the same vantage point as my photo above. For more old/new photo comparisons, see the description on my Flickr photo set, link above.


Torquay, Babbacombe Bay, from the Inn - National Media Museum
Torquay, Babbacombe Bay, from the Inn © National Media Museum

The photo left is thought to be circa 1880, taken by Francis Bedford, the photographer who took early photo of Giant Rock above. Some of the same buildings as in the Francis Frith photo above can be seen in this photograph.

The Cary Arms, in existence to this day, can be seen on the left.

 

 

 

The route was to be Oddicombe, to Watcombe, to Maidencombe, skirting around Labrador Bay, out to The Ness, then dropping down into Shaldon. Early light rain soon began to clear, visibility was good, and the day started to warm as I set out on the first of my steep climbs of the day, climbing out of Oddicombe.

034 Watcombe
Watcombe Beach

Near Watcombe I walked through the old quarrying site that once supplied the Watcombe Pottery, some of which was apparently in the possession of Queen Victoria. Watcombe beach was deserted; just a dilapidated cafe and it's owner tinkering with his car. It's a lovely setting all the same, and none the worse for my having it virtually to myself.


 

052 Maidencombe
Maidencombe Beach

 

 

The next point of call is Maidencombe, which can be a little more popular than Watcombe being serviced by a car park, the Thatched Tavern, and a beach cafe. From Maidencombe the walk took me out onto the cliff edge from where some of the best views of the walk are to be had. Views both to the south and Torquay and the north and Teighnmouth are superb. A lot of steep cliffs, many stepped climbs, but spectacular scenery it proves to be.

080 Shaldon
View of Teign Estuary from The Ness

 

The view from The Ness was obscured by extreme vegetation growth, which spoils a normally stunning view across the Teign Estuary to Teignmouth. I climbed down a little from the point and sneaked a view between the trees, looking up the Teign Estuary (see photo).

Shaldon is a lovely place to stroll around, beautiful and peaceful. I searched out my old photo views and snap replica images, finding that things once again had changed little during the last 100 years.


My total ascent for the day was 850 metres, which confirmed my view that coastal path walking can be as tough as any around. This meant I had most of the walk to myself, as most people have more sense! Perhaps an odd aspect of this day was discovering that the photos of around a hundred years ago showed busier places than I was to see on my walk today. What are people doing today? It had been a hard but extremely rewarding day's walking. I caught the 4:40 pm bus out of Teignmouth for Exeter, arriving Topsham Road by 5:30 pm.

Notes [Giant’s Rock]: The location of Giant’s Rock, as pictured in the photo of 1880 from the National Media Museum, takes some fathoming, but can be determined from old maps. The web site Old Maps has a range of old Ordnance Survey maps and from these it is possible to see Giant Rock clearly marked. Visit the Old Maps web site and enter the coordinates: 292292 67526. View the 1906 1:2,500 map for this location by clicking on the appropriate Enlarge Map button on the right, then click once into the centre of the old map that is displayed to zoom in. On this map Giant Rock is clearly visible. This same location can be viewed on the modern OS maps for this location (centred on grid reference given above) but you will note that Giant Rock is no longer identified on the map. I would conjecture that this is the position at which the photographer stood to take the photograph of 1880. I returned on a later trip and took a closer look at this site today, which I describe in my blog post 09 May 2014 - Walk: Giant Rock, Watcombe and Berry Head.

I do feel it is rather a shame that what was once quite obviously a view that attracted sightseers from far and wide is now virtually obliterated by trees to the point whereby it no longer merits mention on current maps. I’m quite convinced the Giant would be exceedingly displeased about the depreciation of his rock.

Walk Statistics:
Total Distance: 11.6m
Total Ascent: 850 metres
Total Walk Time: (moving): 4 hrs 46 mins (elapsed): 7 hrs 26 mins
Maximum Elevation: 127 metres
Buses: Stagecoach 2 (to Teignmouth) & 32 (St Marychurch)

Sunday, 7 September 2008

07 September 2008 - Walk: Holyford, Branscombe and Beer (13.6 miles)

Synopsis: A very varied walk through forest, countryside and along the coastal path. Something for everyone. With an ice cream as reward, even the steep cliff climbs are able to be endured.

GPS Tracklog Download (.gpx) Microsoft OneDrive -:- Google Drive
 
 
007 Morganhayes Covert021 Branscombe027 Branscombe030 Branscombe Beach046 Beer Head056 Beer
(selection of photos from Flickr photo set – use link above to view album)

This was a lovely walk. It has such variety, including Devon countryside, woods, cliffs, and beautiful seaside places. It is quite a lengthy walk, but not too strenuous. The only serious climb being that out of Branscombe, mounting the cliff towards Beer Head.

I was lucky with the weather. After all the rains and floods of the previous two days, I had sunshine for this walk. There was mud in places, but nothing too bad.

009 Morganhayes Covert
Morganhayes Covert - the track widens

The walk started through the forest of Morgenhayes Covert. This was easy going mostly level walking along forest tracks. The fresh air and quietness of the forest made for a very peaceful start to today’s walk.

 

 

022 Branscombe
Branscombe - The Mason's Arms

 

 

 

From here my path took me in the direction of the coast through the pretty little village of Branscombe. On this warm and sunny September day many families were to be seen enjoying their beverages at the Mason’s Arms.

038 Branscombe Beach
Looking down on Branscombe Beach as I climb towards Beer Head

 

 

The steep climb out of Branscombe Beach may have been tough going, but it afforded wonderful views back along the coast. From here my path took me in the direction of Beer Head.

043 Beer Head
The coastal path can be seen below

 

 

 


The coastal landscape is very unusual on Beer Head, in that a massive landslip many years ago has created a cleft through which a lower path runs. Today I was on the upper path and able to gaze over this jagged landscape and appears to have an almost prehistoric wildness about it.

058 Beer
Beer - fishing boats and leisure craft

 

From Beer Head my path took me into the small coastal village of Beer itself. In many respects a picture book fishing village, although these days the visitors far outnumber the fishermen. Beer is full of charm, and an excellent place in which to get a delicious ice cream.

Walk notes: I did go slightly wrong in the forest early in this walk and did have to make a slight correction which you'll see on the map, but hey! not bad going really. There was a good place to pull my car off onto the verge near Holyford, just on the road junction.